Golden Stairs  5.11c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  Bertrand Gramont & Phil Simon 10/87 Submitted By:  Anthony Stout on May 5, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Stunning Line

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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>> The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A classic line. Begin just right of the Goliath arete (both routes share the same start), and climb to the top of a large pillar. Once gaining the top of the pillar continue up and pull a balancy move for the technical crux. Trend right on large holds, then up and through the bulge. This bulge is the crux for most, as the pump clock is ticking. After pulling this bulge, the rest is only 5.8 climbing but can be a little spooky, especially if your super pumped! It is fairly run out from there to the anchors.

One can continue to the top from the midpoint anchors, but if done it will be helpful to have a 70m rope. Run out but easy climbing up there.

Protection 

10 bolts to the first set of anchors. If you continue to the top there are three more bolts.

Photos of Golden Stairs Slideshow

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Unknown climber on Golden Stairs	Getting ready for the final crux of the climb. Sep...	Unknown climber sending.