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Green Adjective Gully
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Golden Showers 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jonathan Knight and Mike Anderson
Page Views: 1,725
Submitted By: jonathan knight on Aug 22, 2006

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Lance Bateman on a roped solo ascent of Golden Sho...

Description 

This route starts as per Unreliable, but moves right past the double cracks to a right trending flake traverse. At the high point of the flake, punch straight up the tiered face past 3 or 4 bolts to a rest.(cruxy) From here you can traverse left and finish on Unreliable, or go straight up past another bolt then move right gain a scoop. Stand up in the scoop to the Unreliable anchors. I think Mike did it a couple of years ago with the Unreliable finish. The direct finish definitely adds some quality, and is just as hard as the other. The belayer may experience the Golden Showers of pebbles that come off of a couple of choss-jugs on route. Thats just one example of the strange climbing on this recently exposed face.


Location 

East wall of the Green A. Branches right off of Unreliable and shares its anchor as well.


Protection 

Some small cams for the flake down low then 6 or 7 bolts to the anchor.



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By John Steiger
Sep 6, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Tempted to give this four stars, but it doesn’t seem to have the track record – yet – to be considered classic. With the direct finish, the line gives two brain-teasing cruxes; the bolts are spread out just far enough to stimulate one’s focus; and the move to the finishing “scoop” is your classic tail stinger. Not super solid rock, but nothing seemed loose. Suggest taking an adjustable wrench to remove the screw-link on the last bolt; that’s a difficult enough clip as it is (am I just unlucky, or are these chicken links becoming more prevalent?). We used four cams, from micro to a red camalot, for the lower section; the upper section has only four bolts, not counting the last (which is inches from the anchors). Kudos to the FA for their great eye and judicious bolt placement.