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 ADVANCED
Coyote Crag
Routes Sorted
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Black Magic Poodle 
Bye Crackie 
Coyotes at Sunset 
Eight Second Ride 
Es Muy Bueno 
Golden Poodle 
Golden Spike 
High Noon 
Hootenanny 
Pass the Bucket 
Red Brewster 
Saddle Tramp 
Western Farm Service 

Golden Poodle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: (TR) Bob Cable & Julia Cronk, 1988, FL: Dave Evans and Chris Miller, June 1997
Season: All year (depending upon snowfall)
Page Views: 2,622
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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BETA PHOTO: Bolt Locations

Description 

Climb broken but easy rock to a bolt about 20' up (optional gear to 2.5" available), clip it, and then get stood up to confront the crux just past the second bolt - thin edges along a vertical seam. Once past the crux the holds get progressively larger and more incut as the bolts get spaced further apart. After clipping the last bolt head straight up to chain anchors atop the highest portion of the wall.

Well protected, with engaging moves on suberb rock which make this an often done climb on this popular wall; this would be the next logical step after leading the nearby Bye Crackie and Coyotes at Sunset.


Location 

Between High Noon and Coyotes at Sunset.


Protection 

6 bolts, bolted anchor/rap



Photos of Golden Poodle Slideshow Add Photo
Albert Ramirez clipping bolt #4 with Agina far below on belay.
Albert Ramirez clipping bolt #4 with Agina f...
Jason making it look very easy
Jason making it look very easy
Golden Poodle (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Golden Poodle (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Albert Ramirez headed for bolt #4.
Albert Ramirez headed for bolt #4.
Bolt Locations
BETA PHOTO: Bolt Locations
Scott eases his was up.
Scott eases his was up.
Climber leading Golden Poodle
Climber leading Golden Poodle
Corrina high stepping on a cold winter's day.
Corrina high stepping on a cold winter's day.
Comments on Golden Poodle Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

CONDITION REPORT 

Looks like a new bolt, before the original first bolt, has been placed (somewhat poorly) and summarily chopped. I don't remember seeing this before.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 10, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Awesome climb! Delicate moves on small crimpers, quite vertical.

By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Jul 16, 2011

Followed on this route! When you have bomber hand holds, no foot holds. Then when you have bomber foot holds, no hand holds. The 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt is run out. Well at least for me, as I am only 5'2". I thought I was going to lead this climb. Not ready for it yet! I will have to work on my sequence. Definitely a fun, exciting, balancy route. ~~ROCKY~~

By Indira Lower
Jul 20, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This whole wall is great for those getting their feet wet on leading ratings higer than 5.8. I loved this climb and this wall, very well protected.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

While it does seem like a next logical step to doing the 5.8 and 5.7 to the right be warned, the holds are significantly smaller, and may surprise you.

A very fine face climb, with lovely holds and moves.