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Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buttress Chimney 
Drain Pipe, The 
First Pitch 
Gates of Delirium 
Golden Oldies 
Hesitation Direct 
Iron Cross 
Last of the Mohicans 
New Generation 
Quiet Desperation 
Race With The Devil 
Red Rain 
Stretch, The 
Sundance Arete 
Voodoo Child 

Golden Oldies 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood and Chip Maloney, July 2001
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jul 14, 2010
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From the Ishi/Quiet Desperation belay move right, then climb up (11a) past 4 bolts, traversing right (crux, 11c) at the fourth bolt to a rest stance. A 5.10a move from here gets you to the 5th bolt. Follow a shallow, left facing corner (5.9) with a fixed pin (you can back up the pin with a #3 BD microstopper) then step right and join Iron Cross for its last 2 bolts (5.8).

Belay from a pine tree.


This pitch climbs diagonally up and right on a beautiful, gold colored slab, starting from the bolted belay of Ishi/Quiet Desperation and finishing on Paisano Ledge.

It can also be accessed by rapping down from Paisano Ledge (build an anchor with 2 to 4 inch CDs directly under Paisano Overhang) which is also a tactic that can be used to climb Ishi's rarely climbed but stunning last pitch, which is a lieback reminiscent of Yosemite's Wheat Thin.


7 bolts, one fixed pin, one thin nut.

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