Golden Locks 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Rob Robinson, Marvin Webb - 1985 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Nov 20, 2006 |
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sending the wife up
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Description One of the true T-Wall classics, Golden Locks may be the most popular route at the crag. Its beautiful splitter crack is instantly recognizable, and the exposure above the Tennessee River far below makes for great photo opportunities. Golden Locks may also be the most sandbagged T-Wall moderate: many leaders have been humbled by this stiff 5.8 (now given a 5.9 by the FA in his new guidebook).
It's wise to have a spotter ready for the overhanging, bouldery start; possibly the toughest move on the route. Once you get past this early crux, route-finding isn't an issue: follow the obvious hand crack straight up the cliff, pausing for a welcome rest at a shallow cave. Save some pro and energy reserves for the steeper sections toward the top.
Location Starts in a wide section of the wall about 35' past Razor Worm; other climbs in the area include Cake Walk.
Protection Medium to large cams; hexes could be helpful. Bolted anchor at the top (on the right face of an overhang just below the cliff top).
JenT enjoying a rest in the hueco
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B-Mack grunts it out.
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Golden Locks
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Goldenlocks 5.8 on a fine Spring day
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lovin this climb
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golden locks
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By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Dec 6, 2006
| Great route. The crux is definitely getting to the crack via the pumpy start with a less than appetizing landing on a pointed rock. Spotter here = good. |
By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Dec 15, 2006
| Usually the six or eight assorted dogs tied off here on weekends make for a decent landing, if you come to the head of the queue. Spot! |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Feb 12, 2007
| Classic Tennessee Wall start. Someone once told me that the first 10 feet of T-Wall routes don't count, as far as grades go. Har har. |
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Nov 4, 2007
| Pumpy! Take advantage of any rest stance you can find after the cave; I ran out of gas near the end. |
By Peter L K
From: Cincinnati, OH
Mar 23, 2008
rating: 5.9
| I didn't use anything larger than a 3, but did use a couple TCUs for the lower section. Fun. |
By nickpoppel
Sep 29, 2009
| Great route! I hung a couple of times :(. This would be a 5.10 in Boulder Canyon. Nothing bigger that a #2 BD. I didn't find the bouldery start that hard, it is however a very sustained climb. Next time ill place less pro and fly up. A great climb to get for my first time at the T-wall, highly recommend it. |
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Jun 22, 2010
| I was almost shut down on the overhang start. Damn that was hard. then climb up to the giant hueco, followed by an amazing hand crack. The crux seems to be at the top, or maybe I was just pumped. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| the very first move is the crux. after that, its a walk. |
By Peter Pitocchi
Nov 22, 2011
| First move protects with a 3 if you are nervous about the pointy rock. Abundant pro. |
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