A left trending flake. Starts off with a slightly overhanging lay back hand crack up onto the ramp like flake that moves up left, the flake narrows to the point where you can't easily stand on it about the same time the jams move from nice hand jams to rattly fingers. The last half of the climb was quite burly and felt harder than 5.9 for me.
Just about half way between the top of Slot Machine and Xenolith Dance. It is a somewhat obvious flake just on the right side of bottom of the upper descent gully that has the fixed lines.
Good selection of hand to finger sized gear. Chained rap anchor. 60m rope works nicely.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Jul 31, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worthy pitch. Starts as #3 camalots and ends as purple/green camalots.
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
very worthwhile little pitch. good blue collar jamming at the start, followed by some elegant footwork with a nice diagonal crack. leader should probably belay from the top anchor, as lowering could jam the first cams into the roof.