Golden Hall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Routes in The Golden Hall behind and on top of the...
The Golden Hall is a rock corridor formed by the upper west face of the main Mary's Bust buttress and an 80-foot wall of golden stone behind it. It's located at the top of the long gully that separates the main buttress from the left buttress. At present (8-21-10), there are a handful on routes on the golden wall side of the corridor, and two routes on the opposite wall of the corridor -- that is, on the very upper west face of Mary's Bust.
There are 3 standard approaches used to access The Golden Hall.
1) Hike up to Moonlight Rock
and traverse right (down canyon) on the ledge on the top of the Left Buttress. Clamber over a big boulder that rests above The Devil's Backbone
to reach the base; the first bolt route encountered is GBD
, which is located on the left side of the flat golden sector of the wall. The hike begins at the big north-side pullout on Hwy 34, and goes more-or-less straight up from the parking pullout. The gully is kind of gnarly and unpleasant, with no good trail at present, and lots of loose terrain. Expect about 20 minutes. Perhaps a trail that connects the end of the main Mary's Bust trail to this gully can be established in the future (though maybe not; the terrain is pretty rough).
2) Hike the normal trail to Mary's Bust, turn right, and head up the gully on the right side. A stream runs down this gully in the spring (can be icy in winter). About half way up, you should see a majestic cedar on a big ledge: Aim for the right side of the ledge, go behind the cedar, and continue along the exposed ledge to a mantle at its end. Above this, a short 5.0 slab must be negotiated: I've got a 20-foot piece of rope fixed there for a hand rail. Continue up the gully and go through the pass behind Mary's Bust to arrive at the base. Also roughly 20 minutes.
3) Climb a route on the main wall or the Left Buttress. Sparky's Cooler
or The Beak
can be done quickly (combine pitches). Head right from the top of the route on a big ledge, and scramble up and behind the big boulder.
See Left Buttress topo
to figure out where you are headed -- routes 10 and 11 are in the Golden Hall.
A. Diamond Overhang
, 5.10- PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
, 5.11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
BC. Morning Town
, 5.10, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
C. Tres Cojones e un Cuernito
, 5.12-(?), 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
D. Rain on the Mountain
, 5.13-, 1p, 75', bolts.
Upper west face of Mary's Bust
, 5.10-, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
, 5.10, 1p, 70', bolts.
Climbing Season For the Mary's Bust Area area.
Weather station 6.4 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Golden Hall
Rain on the Mountain 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c CO
: Estes Park Valley
: ... : Golden Hall
Rain on the Mountain climbs the beautiful, vertical face on the right side of The Golden Hall (see topo) with immaculate stone. Once you get to the 2nd bolt, it doesn't let up until the very top.Climb an easy ramp up and right to reach the first of 9 bolts (yes, you may use the corner to the right to full advantage in order to establish yourself on the wall). The first half is about 5.12- along a thin seam to good holds midway up the wall; the 2nd half is the business.Be...[more] Browse More Classics in CO