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Pull over the lip with high feet and underclings to gain a jug and easy ground to the first bolt. Clip the bolt and traverse low right to a mantle move onto a chicken head, and clip a second bolt. Make some slabby moves to gain the third bolt which is a little higher and to the right. Clip the older bolt and move yet again up and right to gain a nice, but short hand crack which turns into a seam. Make some difficult moves to gain a ledge, where you can belay.
From there, move to the left edge of the ledge and pull through the 5.8 fist crack/bulge. The more insecure you are willing to get, the easier it is. From here, move left up the easy crack/flake until you can move straight up on unprotected 5.4. Gain a 5.6ish fist crack and belay at the top at two bolts.
I linked this into 1 varied pitch with good use of slings. Less confident leaders should probably break it into two pitches.
This route is located about 100 yards up and right of MRC Direct
. Scramble up the blocks until a hanging slab is above you with a few bolts on it.
To get off, walk across the top of the formation to the rap anchor located above MRC Direct
. Two single rope raps will get you down. You could probably also rap off the anchors at the top of the climb with two ropes.
Standard rack. You should have 2 #3s, and a #4 if you feel uncomfortable on fist cracks.