This route is on the Southeast face of the Black Peeler to the right of Peeler Direct. It climbs the righthand prow of the Peeler face. To reach, climb Orangutan Afternoon most of the way then stem right across a chimney and traverse right to a small ledge with bolt anchors and belay. For Goldeneye, climb up and left from there into a short left facing corner. Protect with a few small to medium cams. The rest of the pitch is bolt protected. Move left across a slab and around to the left side of the prow. Climb up from there following bolts to chain anchors at the top. Really good climbing.
Bring a set of cams. Quickdraws.
Oct 29, 2007
one of the best in the canyon Props Ben and Lance!! *****
|By Ben Folsom|
Jul 5, 2010
Found a fixed rope on Golden Eye yesterday. It was old with core shots and totally baked to a crisp in the sun. Normally I would leave peoples fixed ropes alone out of respect for others property and for their projecting purposes. This rope however had obviously been left through the winter and was no longer safe to use. Anyway, I removed the rope, so if whoever it was wants it back, get in touch with me here. It's worthless for climbing, but still might make a few decent rugs.
From: Wasatch Back, UT
May 12, 2014
This route keeps getting harder? Used to be 12c I thought.
|By Ben Folsom|
Jun 13, 2014
I guess I did change the rating to 13a. I'm not good at rating things in the first place. Everyone I have talked to that has done the route tells me it is 5.13. Now days, people get so upset about a little sandbag, so figured I'd change it. Go do it, let me know what you think.