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Tonsai Tower
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Golden Copulation 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Magnus Wiklund and Suchard Sripoh
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 31, 2007
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A two-pitch climb, but usually done as one long pitch. This is the best way. 5.9 to the first anchor, with one steep crux move. At close to 80 feet it also makes for a nice warmup climb, or just and easy way to take in the view. The second pitch continues upward into the overhanging roof halfway up the tower. More typical limestone, without the horizontal bands (read: jugs) that cover the base of the tower. Belay in the big cave. Two rappels down.


Location 

Middle of the right side of the wall. Start on horisontal jugs, vertical climbing, just left of a bright orange section in the lower part of the wall. The first anchor is at the end of the horizontal jugs.


Protection 

Mix of Ti and SS glue in bolts, and threads. 9 draws for the first pitch, 18 if you are linking them. The climb is over protected and you could get away with skipping pro and taking only 12 or 13 draws.



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