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Beaver Wall
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Golden Beaver Left 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, Ray Ringle 1986
Page Views: 3,477
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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David Merin on the first redpoint of this climb us...

Description 

Technical hard face climbing around a crack then really technical finger locks to finish it off. Three bolts, two of which were placed to replace a couple of drilled pins. At this time the route has been done on gear alone and the bolts were skipped. Braxton Norwood called it the Brazilian Beaver if you skip the bolts.

Location 

Second crack you come to, on the left side of the Beaver Wall.

Protection 

4 bolts and gear up to a green camalot. The route has now been climbed without clipping the bolts. Good gear can be found but it is difficult to find bomber gear and place it. A few of the placements were found on TR runs using bolts to back up until the integrity of the piece was verified.


Photos of Golden Beaver Left Slideshow Add Photo
John,if you landed on your head as many times as I have you would look like a dwarf too.  I am not a good role model as I never wear a helmet.  After smacking my head hard once I decided to wear one for this route.  <div class='video-sizeLimiter'><div class='video-container'><iframe id='ytplayer' type='text/html' src='http://www.youtube.com/embed/cP_rmd7JicI?autoplay=0&origin=<a href='http://www.mountainproject.com&modestbranding=1'' >mountainproject.com&modestbran...</a> frameborder='0'></iframe></div></div>
John,if you landed on your head as many times as I...
Don't read this if you don't want the gear beta.  Bomber rack for GB Left. Blue offset is equalized with the thin wire.  The green cam goes in the horizontal with the TCU. This is the order except that the gold wallnut goes in after the equalized stoppers and before the green camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Don't read this if you don't want the gear beta. ...

Comments on Golden Beaver Left Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 30, 2010
By Josh Janes
Dec 14, 2009

This description is full of innuendo and hidden agendas.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 14, 2009

No innuendo or hidden agendas Josh. Not planning on chopping anything. David Merin is trying to lead it on pro by skipping the bolts. He already did The Golden Beaver that way. You could be more specific. Maybe I am too tired to see a joke. Help me. Thanks.
By Josh Janes
Dec 14, 2009

Sorry Eric... it was tongue in cheek. I think it's great that David Merin is attempting a rock climb. I hope he can succeed at improving upon the style of the FFA which apparently involved bolting a crack.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 15, 2009

Thanks Josh
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 17, 2009

You guys are awesome! Keep up the hard work!!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 17, 2009

12/17/09 David Merin sent this route on his third run of the day. He placed all of his own protection from the ground up each time he lead it. He skipped all four of the existing bolts. This might be the hardest 100% clean trad route in southern Arizona. It is also the first 5.13 David has ever done. Nice job!
By Chelsea Cook
Dec 17, 2009

Rock on, David. You're the man!
By Jimbo
Dec 18, 2009

David is now an offical member, in good standing, of the EFR FA posse!!
By Aleix
Dec 18, 2009

Congrats David. You are the King, way to show us who's boss in this mountain.
By eMurdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 18, 2009

Another great tick for the tribe. Great job David!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 18, 2009

daaaaaaaayam nice job david!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 18, 2009

holy shit david!!!! incredible work!!!!!

hope you got some photos and send this one into climbing or r&i.
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Dec 18, 2009

Congratulations! Strong work!
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 30, 2009

So what are you guys going to do with the bolts? We're grappling with similar questions here in Northern AZ.

mountainproject.com/v/arizona_...
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 30, 2009

Hey Mike, at this point there is no need to do anything. I think it is cool that someone can do it with or without the bolts. The experience I get from skipping bolts is great. Let them rust away. This route is pretty hard to protect and the bolts allowed me (not sure about David) to back up the pro when I was jump testing them. They also allow our partners to TR the thing without trashing the gear. Check out the discussion for Golden Beaver. Chopping bolts just because you lead it is more about ego. Don't like them don't use them. These bolts were put in to replace drilled pins. If nothing else the bolts are a bit of history. That thing you did is different. I would talk to the FA guys about it.
By Matt Fowls
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 14, 2010

truly an awesome feat. great job david!

has this seen an ascent since?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jan 15, 2010

Guy named Brian from S. Africa did it on Tuesday. I worked it with him and he felt it was definitely 13a and maybe b. He also did it placing all the pro as he climbed it.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 16, 2010

Wow! Another redpoint! Nice!
By Chelsea Cook
Jan 18, 2010

Congrats to Brian!
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
May 30, 2010

On Saturday, May 29 Eric Rhicard walked up this thing, thus finally assuring that 1. He most definitely is one talented climber, and 2. that he won't have to listen to anyone ask how his project at the Beaver is going. Awesome send!

Check out the video I unsteadily filmed here:
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 30, 2010

Wow, looks like super-thin and technical footwork. Nice job.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
May 30, 2010

WOWWWEEEEEEE!!!!! Holy bad-assness, Eric. Fantastic work and so cool to have it on video. Big, big congrats to you =)
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
May 30, 2010

From the video it appears that he only clipped one of the anchors. Not a controlled finish. Doesn't count.

Seriously though... nice work Eric! Amazing!
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
May 30, 2010

Nice Eric! Also proof you wore a helmet too.
By jbak
May 30, 2010

The aspect ratio of the video makes you look even MORE like a red dwarf ! Awesome send youth ! What's that on your head ?
By CALEB ANDERSON
May 30, 2010

Did not know you barely sent...Congrats...On my birthday too.....How ironic..Congrats.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 30, 2010

CONGRATS ERIC!! This is an amazing accomplishment! Many thanks to Eric (and Dave Merin too) for pushing the Mt. Lemmon trad threshold and inspiring all of us to climb harder and better.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 30, 2010

Nice Eric!!!
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 30, 2010

Thanks everyone. Need to give credit to Chris Prewitt who decided to try Golden Beaver on gear alone. He got the ball rolling. Then David Merin really pushed hard and did GB then GB left. If I hadn't agreed to help David work out the final crack section I would never have even tried it. Once I did all the moves that first day I knew I had to do it. I have cursed David more than once. Fortunately the moves are really cool and the holds are the friendliest on this cliff. 3 of the last 5 months working on it, around 40 failures on it, with all but about 6 on lead, make this my hardest redpoint and really sweet. Thanks again for all the belays and encouragement.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
May 31, 2010

yeah eric!
By Craig Smith
Jun 1, 2010

Nice one Eric. I very much enjoyed watching the video.

I noticed you did the top crux section the 'hard way'! I did it with Todd Skinner around '86 and he did it that way. I took the 'easy' option and climbed the crux crack by laybackin the right hand side of the crack then crossing through. Wolfgang Gullich did it this way too :)

Could somebody clarify for me when the bolts appeared? I'm more or less certain when Todd and I did it the gear was nuts, friends and and fixed pins.

All the best,

Craig
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 1, 2010

I tried repeatedly to do the layback. After about 30 minutes I decided (warriors way) to try a different approach. I then worked out the sequence you see in the video. This beta worked for David and I. I always figured Hideataka laybacked up the thing.

Drilled Pins were replaced with bolts but I don't know who did it.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 2, 2010

Why I started wearing Geir's Helmet.
By jbak
Jun 2, 2010

Ah.... the old hi-torque, leg-push rotation fall. I figured that must be what did it.

I once saw someone knock themselves cold doing that on a boulder problem and they were on a sit-start only 3 feet off the ground. At Campbell Cliff.
By Chelsea Cook
Jun 4, 2010

Way to go, Eric! I'm sorry I missed it, but glad to have seen the video :-) I'm so happy for you!
By Julie Messier
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2010

SE-WEET !!!! Congrats Eric ! Way to go on perseverance :-)
By Antoine Horness
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 18, 2010

Congratulations Eric! It is quite obvious that you really worked that route and the payoff was huge. Cheers from Tony!
By dolemike
Jul 30, 2010

Nice Eric!

I told you that old men can still get beaver!