David Merin on the first redpoint of this climb us...
Technical hard face climbing around a crack then really technical finger locks to finish it off. Three bolts, two of which were placed to replace a couple of drilled pins. At this time the route has been done on gear alone and the bolts were skipped. Braxton Norwood called it the Brazilian Beaver if you skip the bolts.
Second crack you come to, on the left side of the Beaver Wall.
4 bolts and gear up to a green camalot. The route has now been climbed without clipping the bolts. Good gear can be found but it is difficult to find bomber gear and place it. A few of the placements were found on TR runs using bolts to back up until the integrity of the piece was verified.
No innuendo or hidden agendas Josh. Not planning on chopping anything. David Merin is trying to lead it on pro by skipping the bolts. He already did The Golden Beaver that way. You could be more specific. Maybe I am too tired to see a joke. Help me. Thanks.
Sorry Eric... it was tongue in cheek. I think it's great that David Merin is attempting a rock climb. I hope he can succeed at improving upon the style of the FFA which apparently involved bolting a crack.
12/17/09 David Merin sent this route on his third run of the day. He placed all of his own protection from the ground up each time he lead it. He skipped all four of the existing bolts. This might be the hardest 100% clean trad route in southern Arizona. It is also the first 5.13 David has ever done. Nice job!
Hey Mike, at this point there is no need to do anything. I think it is cool that someone can do it with or without the bolts. The experience I get from skipping bolts is great. Let them rust away. This route is pretty hard to protect and the bolts allowed me (not sure about David) to back up the pro when I was jump testing them. They also allow our partners to TR the thing without trashing the gear. Check out the discussion for Golden Beaver. Chopping bolts just because you lead it is more about ego. Don't like them don't use them. These bolts were put in to replace drilled pins. If nothing else the bolts are a bit of history. That thing you did is different. I would talk to the FA guys about it.
On Saturday, May 29 Eric Rhicard walked up this thing, thus finally assuring that 1. He most definitely is one talented climber, and 2. that he won't have to listen to anyone ask how his project at the Beaver is going. Awesome send!
Thanks everyone. Need to give credit to Chris Prewitt who decided to try Golden Beaver on gear alone. He got the ball rolling. Then David Merin really pushed hard and did GB then GB left. If I hadn't agreed to help David work out the final crack section I would never have even tried it. Once I did all the moves that first day I knew I had to do it. I have cursed David more than once. Fortunately the moves are really cool and the holds are the friendliest on this cliff. 3 of the last 5 months working on it, around 40 failures on it, with all but about 6 on lead, make this my hardest redpoint and really sweet. Thanks again for all the belays and encouragement.
Nice one Eric. I very much enjoyed watching the video.
I noticed you did the top crux section the 'hard way'! I did it with Todd Skinner around '86 and he did it that way. I took the 'easy' option and climbed the crux crack by laybackin the right hand side of the crack then crossing through. Wolfgang Gullich did it this way too :)
Could somebody clarify for me when the bolts appeared? I'm more or less certain when Todd and I did it the gear was nuts, friends and and fixed pins.
I tried repeatedly to do the layback. After about 30 minutes I decided (warriors way) to try a different approach. I then worked out the sequence you see in the video. This beta worked for David and I. I always figured Hideataka laybacked up the thing.
Drilled Pins were replaced with bolts but I don't know who did it.