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Golden Arch 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Wolfe, Cook (1985 or so)
Season: not summer
Page Views: 611
Submitted By: bernard on Sep 15, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: GOLDEN ARCH, Steele, Al

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Description 

Golden Arch is a long left-to-right arching crack to the left of the cave feature. Reachy, weird start...shuffling along a ledge with hands stuffed overhead, crank through more crack. The rock is a blonde color. The crack arches all the way to a finish or there is a variation through thin fracture and face holds that goes straight up before the end of the arch. A full value 5.10. Doesn't get climbed often so get your pioneer face on.

Not to be confused with Golden Arches near Sugar Mag on the way other end of the cliff....the old area.


Location 

down the radio tower-proximate descent gully.....all the way to the ground.....facing the cliff, walk to your right 25 yards or so.....it'll be brushy......find the big cave that has old tat on HB hangers (left side, this is Evil Is, 5.11, right side there is a 5.12 through a roof crack...forgot the name...old Doug/Maurice Reed route).



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By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Jan 5, 2011

(more current approach details)
from where the approach trail meets the cliff, walk left past Wolf Wall, through a jumble of boulders, past a section of tallish, slabby wall to a point where you can distinguish that a terrace trail ascends slightly up right to a short wall with a distinctive, right-facing dihedral and alternatively. Another path leads down left beside a shortish slabby wall. At the end of the slabby wall is a large, shallow cave feature with some large boulders in front of it. Just past this is Golden Arch. Its an arching hand/finger crack that ascends left to right over the left side of the cave and ends on the upper level where the aforementioned terrace trail is.

Good route. One of the better trad routes at the crag.