Golden Age  5.12b

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Morgan Patterson 06/10/12 (TR) New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  CaptainMo on Jun 12, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Ragged Arete

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Location 

The Ragged Arete

Description 

Starting about 10 ft right of Carey's Corner crack, step up to the start holds for Cygnus X-1. Climb to the decent horizontal just below the large overlap, follow the horizontal left for several feet and reach up to a large jug/rest at the base of the Ragged Arete where it joins the face. Layback out some vertical holds on the left face of the arete to gain a stance just below the small overlap. From the small overlap continue up the arete using decent holds to a good stance (almost no hands). From this rest stance work several tenuous moves on the right side of the arete to an undercling flake on the corner. At the flake make a crux move utilizing the sidepull on the undercling flake to make a swinging move left around the corner. Once established on the left side of the arete, reach out to the vertical seam of Black Orchid. Work a compression sequence up the seam and arete to the top of the Ragged Arete.

I have done quite a bit of research on this line and spent about two years off & on projecting it and believe this is an FA. If you know otherwise please let me know. This line is a link up, Swan Song into Black Orchid.

Protection 

An anchor and a top rope...

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BETA PHOTO: Golden Age