Goldbug 5.10d
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Erik doing the high step.
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Description This is the corner climb between Know Ethics(5.10d) and Gold Digger(5.8+). It shares the hard technical nature of its neighbor to the left without being quite as hair raising (for some reason Know Ethics can be a bit heady).
As with all the climbs in this section start up easy ground on good holds for the first 20 or so feet and get nestled in to the corner where the business happens. Solid stemming and trust in your feet are a must on this one. Work your way somewhat awkwardly up the well protected crux corner to a stance above. At this point you meet up with Gold Digger (5.8+) right before its crux. Instead of going out right like that route you want to make a few more hard moves straight up and on to the anchors.
Location There are 3 corner climbs on the right hand side of the orangish band of rock at center Main Cliff. This is the middle one.
Protection 7 bolts to anchor (quickies i think)
Tim on the last crux move.
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nicole headed up the corner of goldbug after start...
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jeff cruxing
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jeff
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jeff on the upper part of the bug
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digging in to the micro gaston...
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a bit of a reach to that clip if your aren't tall....
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 29, 2007
| I just climbed this route again recently and found it to have gotten harder for some reason... it looked like the left footholds in the corner had crumbled and i found i needed to do a long reach to get through the crux... |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| I did this route for the first time and through the crux i only stemmed once the rest was face climbing, with a long reach to a small crimp. ton of fun though
FA: Jim Shimberg |
By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 23, 2009
| Yeah I used matthew's beta and it felt about right for the grade |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| yeah i thought it was about right for the grade...
i thought a fun link up would be the start and crux of goldbug then the upper part and crux of gold digger has anyone done this link up? you would get a good rest between the two hard parts but it looks fun. |
By twellman
Feb 15, 2010
| Matt, I did that link up today. It was quite fun. I also did the link up of golddigger to goldbug corner finish before it, for a little criss-cross action. The clipping is a bit weird, but both are possible and fun. The crux of golddigger felt pretty hard for 5.8... some very small holds as you cross that upper face. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 16, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| yeah twellman, the face of gold digger, is hard it gets the 5.8 grade if you climb the corner until you can just reach over and get the big jug, staying on that really thin face is harder then 5.8 for sure. I have done the digger to bug link but not the other one yeah, Glad you enjoyed it. |
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c
| My friend Bob and his friend Ralph, 2 old school 60-something year old climbers, encouraged me to try this today with no beta (except that "the crux is well protected"). I am quite glad they did! This was a great climb with some really fun slab moves. |
By S. Neoh
Sep 16, 2012
| I had my ass handed to me on this route recently. I felt quite horrible until I (just) read Lee's post about the crumbled footholds on the left wall and doing a long reach. I remember being able to smear a lot more in the corner BITD. What grade would people give the Digger to Bug linkup? I saw a friend do it the other day and it looked good. |
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c
| When I did this yesterday, I kept out of the dihedral. It was thin but not terrible. |
By S. Neoh
Sep 16, 2012
| Matt, you wrote somewhere you are 6-foot tall; that makes a difference for the slab move/crux .... by far the hardest move on the route for me. |
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c
| You are correct. However, my climbing partner who climbed after me is about 5'4". He went even farther right than me, essentially staying on the arete. He did a thumb gaston on one of the micro crimps. |
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