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 ADVANCED
Goldenfingers Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete Bernadette T,S 
Arete Juliete T,S 
Fool's Gold T 
Garden of Gordon T 
Goldbagger T,S 
Golden Oldie S 
Goldenfingers T,TR 
Grillin' Swillin' & Chillin' TR 
OtherWorld T,TR 
Stone They Rejected S 

Goldbagger 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gary Olsen, onsight solo, 1983
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: grk10vq on Sep 8, 2009

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Goldbagger

Description 

Climb the arete using knobs and small crystals. Gain a slab stance about half way up and clip the only bolt. Friction your way up the remaining face aiming for a thin crack. Top it out and give yourself a high five.

Back-wall dabbing the start is highly discouraged.


Location 

On the far left side of the main Goldenfingers Wall just left of Golden Oldie


Protection 

One bolt and micro nuts.



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By Tea
Oct 13, 2009

I broke a huge crystal off this a few years back, and took a nice whip. Seemed harder than 10a after that...but I'm a cupcake.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

You can get a couple of shaky micro cams in the cracks above the lone bolt, I think red and green C3s worked. Micronuts placements aren't obvious but with some tinkering you will get by.
Sticking inside the chimney for the first couple moves would save you from a nasty fall. There is still one move to clip the bolt that I would suggest not blowing...