Climb the arete using knobs and small crystals. Gain a slab stance about half way up and clip the only bolt. Friction your way up the remaining face aiming for a thin crack. Top it out and give yourself a high five.
Back-wall dabbing the start is highly discouraged.
On the far left side of the main Goldenfingers Wall just left of Golden Oldie
One bolt and micro nuts.
Oct 13, 2009
I broke a huge crystal off this a few years back, and took a nice whip. Seemed harder than 10a after that...but I'm a cupcake.
From: Small Lake, UT
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You can get a couple of shaky micro cams in the cracks above the lone bolt, I think red and green C3s worked. Micronuts placements aren't obvious but with some tinkering you will get by.
Sticking inside the chimney for the first couple moves would save you from a nasty fall. There is still one move to clip the bolt that I would suggest not blowing...