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Gold Finger 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 623
Submitted By: susan peplow on Jan 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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60 year old, Soo warming up on "Goldfinger&qu...

Description 

If you've got time for one more route with southern exposure this may be a good bet. Route follows obvious bolt line to summit and provides fun and positive holds. Vertical but not steep and gets that "one more" route in. Much better than its sister "Dr. Know" which is found to the left.

Location 

Middle route on south face of Sunnyside sandwiched between "Dr.Know - .10b" and "Walk in the Park - .8" SCSG 3rd edition route 825

Protection 

5 bolts to chain anchor


Photos of Gold Finger Slideshow Add Photo
"Goldfinger". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Goldfinger". Photo by Blitzo.

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 28, 2007

Route described as 10a in guidebook. Route seems to be a bit more difficult than its counterpart "Dr. Know" to the left but much better. I say more like 10b and throw in a star. If you're looking for a few good routes at the end of the day close to the car this and "chick flakey" may be a good choice.

~Susan
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 28, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good route to a snazzy underclingy roofy thingy crux up high.
By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Jan 28, 2007

Jack recently added a bolt to the start of this route. Previously this route and the one to the left shared the same start. But with all the traffic these routes see Jack felt a seperate start was appropriate.
By duh
Feb 1, 2007

I don't know what the guide says, however Gold finger is one grade harder than Dr Know to the left and is a better route.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 20, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Much better than Dr. Know. My guidebook rates it harder, but it's straightforward unlike the awkward Dr. Know.
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Jan 31, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Definitely harder than Dr. Know. Move through a few sidepulls after the 3rd bolt and then past the "underclingy thing", which is the crux. First 10 of the season. What an ugly display! HA!
By steple
Feb 20, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The 'undercling thing' makes frightening sounds when you pull on it.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 24, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The best of the bunch here with thoughtful climbing down low and a juggy finish out a bulge. Seems a little easier than the nearby "Welcome to NJC".
By Clif Clap
May 24, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I found Dr. Know harder to read a bit more sustained. The crux on this route is tricky though and requires some reach. Though the holds from the final bolt to the anchors are way positive, there was enough space there and it was just bulgy enough that I was reminded of the feeling I get topping out on a boulder problem.