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Main Cliff
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Gold Digger 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Smith 11/99
Page Views: 4,398
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (140)
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nicole in the corner

Description 

Climb up the farthest right groove on the central Main Clif. Moderate and fun moves lead to a stance in a corner... climb the interesting corner to another stance and a hard-for-the-grade exit to the right from the corner. Easier if tall, a jug awaits just out of reach.

The easiest route in this area. Often dry when other routes of the grade are soaked.

"Digger-bug (5.8)" is a popular link up that does the 1st 2/3 of Gold Digger (5.8+) but then where that route has a puzzling step right (crux) you instead clip the last two bolts of Gold Bug (5.10c/d) out to your left as you climb up the very pleasant stemming corner above to the Gold Bug Anchors... This has become a popular moderate option and proves to be an easy way to set a toprope Gold Bug (5.10c/d)...

Location 

Far right side of the central section of Main Cliff. Following the deepest groove in the area.

Protection 

8 bolts to quick clips.


Photos of Gold Digger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: nicole getting her stem on!
nicole getting her stem on!
Rock Climbing Photo: one more in the corner
one more in the corner
Rock Climbing Photo: nicole on the link up
nicole on the link up
Rock Climbing Photo: Lily Hallet on Gold Digger on a cold day in early ...
Lily Hallet on Gold Digger on a cold day in early ...
Rock Climbing Photo: nicole looking up the corner
nicole looking up the corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Otey trying to get warm on a cold day on Gold Digg...
Otey trying to get warm on a cold day on Gold Digg...
Rock Climbing Photo: Otey on Gold Digger, Heading up for the Digger-Bug...
Otey on Gold Digger, Heading up for the Digger-Bug...

Comments on Gold Digger Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Phillips
From: Pittsburgh
Jul 18, 2011

An OK climb that serves as a good warm up. Watch out during the summer. I just was on it and there was a small hornets nest in a undercling/jug about halfway up the route. Luckily didn't get stuck but certainly got surprised.
By kenr
Aug 5, 2011

I was following, but my leader (against my advice) avoided the tricky move right, and instead finished climbing sort of left-ward up to bolt anchors (which I assume are intended for the adjoining climb to the left, Goldbug). That finish didn't seem harder than 5.9, maybe less.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Aug 6, 2011

kenr: It's actually a popular linkup called digger bug. I think it goes at 5.8 or so and is an easy way to top rope Goldbug. I've never actually climbed to the anchors of Gold Digger. :)
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Mar 10, 2013

I have somehow avoided this route up until today. Big mistake! Fun and interesting moves, cool heady crux, great climb if you are looking for a moderate in the area. I'm going to have to do the diggerbug link up soon.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Apr 16, 2013

Both quick clips at top are severely worn and showing a pretty significant groove. I would advise people to rap off this until they can be replaced. I have let the RCA know.

Just a reminder to not top rope through the fixed gear!!!!!
By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Jul 31, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I found the crux to be very exciting for the grade. Crux move reminds of of the Gunks!
By S. Neoh
Aug 29, 2015

I think the Digger Bug finish is quite good; seems like the more natural finish to the route. If shortie like me, there is a move or two of 5.9/5.9+ in the Digger Bug finish.

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