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Gold Coast Cliffs

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Bluejay Canyon 
Moonshine Canyon 
Razors Edge Canyon 
South End  
Underworld, The 
Zen Canyon 

Gold Coast Cliffs Rock Climbing 


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Location: 35.88116, -81.90287 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,039
Administrators: Ryan Williams, ShockSLL, Aaron James Parlier, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nbrown on Nov 6, 2007
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Description 

There are many broken up cliff lines on the west side of Linville Gorge. The Gold Coast refers to the section that lies below the Rock Jock Trail. There has been a fair amount of undocumented exploration on these walls over the years, but many of the explorers only made the trip a hand full of times due to the traditionally heinous approach to these cliffs. One party even bushwhacked over from the east side, not realizing that there was a road on the western rim! But the recent re-construction of the rock jock trail and the significant hiking traffic nowadays has made for a pretty reasonable approach.

Getting There 

Locate the Kistler Memorial Hwy on the west side of Linville Gorge. Directions below are referenced by driving north on this gravel road.

The best approach to everything from the south end up to Zen Canyon is this:

If driving north on Kistler, park in a small spot on the left (west side of road) 7.2 miles from the beginning of the gravel section. Locate the "drainage ditch" which is the trail head. It should take about 10 minutes to hike down to the RJ this way, as opposed to 35 min if traversing in the whole Rock Jock. Once at the RJ, to get to Razors Edge and Zen access trails turn left. To get to Moonshine and Underworld access trails turn right. Further approach info can be found under the respective canyon access.

If climbing at Bluejay canyon and north the best approach is this:


Hike in from the north end of RJ. Either start at the Conley Cove trailhead and hike south to the intersetcion of the Rock Jock trail (longer way), or park 1/4 mile south of Conely Cove at a faint parking spot located in the steep S curve (there are several spots). The old path is nearly gone but the start can easily be found at a tree with a big X spray painted on it and a rock cairn. Walk a minute or less through the woods to the RJ and turn right. There are many smaller cliffs within about 5 minutes from the car. Hacker's Point is about 15 minutes and Bluejay is about 20-30 minutes (just past "blue jay falls"). It is the drainage gully ("canyon") where the trail turns sharply uphill and crosses come large down tree's. Instead of going up, just go down the drainage.

For good smartphone-compatible maps, look here: lgmaps.org/?page_id=10

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.9 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gold Coast Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gold Coast Cliffs:
The Devil Wears Prana   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   The Underworld
Satan's Glory   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad   The Underworld
The 8th Sin   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   The Underworld
The Dark Angel   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   The Underworld
Mark of the Beast   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   The Underworld
Tiers of Satan   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   The Underworld
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gold Coast Cliffs

Featured Route For Gold Coast Cliffs
Rock Climbing Photo: The left bolt line is Mark of the Beast.  Cerberus...

Mark of the Beast 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  NC : Linville Gorge : ... : The Underworld
This route has great variety. A crimpy face leads to a tough, steep roof. Sequential climbing on the headwall leads to pumpy jugs. This route is fun and sustained with good flow on great rock. It has some technical steep face climbing, a bit atypical for the cliff. A personal favorite. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Gold Coast Cliffs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gold Coast Cliffs from Little Table Rock Overlook
BETA PHOTO: Gold Coast Cliffs from Little Table Rock Overlook
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: GB following in Zen Canyon
GB following in Zen Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Eddie following
Eddie following
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee on the Zen Face
Lee on the Zen Face
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice seam feature
A nice seam feature
Rock Climbing Photo: GB on the red wall
GB on the red wall
Rock Climbing Photo: GB
GB
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon leading off FA of P-2
Jon leading off FA of P-2
Rock Climbing Photo: Christian on the Zen Face
Christian on the Zen Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee on the Zen Face
Lee on the Zen Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Razors Edge Canyon
Razors Edge Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Razors Edge Canyon
Razors Edge Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the northern end of GCC and the respec...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the northern end of GCC and the respec...
Rock Climbing Photo: Razors Edge Canyon
Razors Edge Canyon

Comments on Gold Coast Cliffs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bob Underwood
From: greensboro
Sep 14, 2008
The Crevasse Creek overhang is now about 200ft below the current route of Rockjock. Have climbers discovered it?
By Ben Sachs
Mar 1, 2010
YES Nathan thanks for posting some descriptions and photos of these canyons. Color photos make it seem way more inviting. Maybe people will go down there. The approaches are tricky but with good trails could be significantly shorter than much of the East side.
By Ben Sachs
Apr 1, 2010
Should/Can this be moved into Linville Gorge? It's in the gorge after all.
By Ben Sachs
Mar 1, 2012
Coming in from the North side, the small pullout mentioned in the first set of directions is about 6.3 miles from where you turn onto Kistler.

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