Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo 5.10- PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Todd Swain & Patty Gill |
| Submitted By: | 46and2 on Apr 15, 2007 |
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Just past the one bolt and into the double thin cr...
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Description Surprisingly fun route with great moves and lots of varied climbing. This would be a pretty serious lead with some THIN gear placements. Starts with a boulder problem type start then moves left to the twin thin cracks/seams to the top of the cliff.
Location This route is about 20 feet to the right of Shallow Fried Cracken and is easy to spot as it is the only climb with a bolt on this entire wall; start on the steep face under the bolt.
Protection There is one bolt with a bad unrated hanger about 15 feet up from the start of the climb. Then use some really thin gear and follow the thin cracks to the top. Take some gear and you can build an anchor off the large blocks on top of the climb. Walk off left as per "Aliens Have Landed". This climb is pretty easy to set up as a top rope!!
Right at the crux; this route is steeper...
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| Comments on Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo |
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.10- PG13
| this is a serious lead with thin gear and insecure movement above it. i got through it, but be SOLID at 5.10 or you'll be very unhappy above that old ass bolt. |
By Hank the Tank
From: Golden, CO
Oct 10, 2007
| One of the best route names EVER! |
By cslice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 12, 2011
| Did this one today...the appeal of short approach lured me in. There are so many good climbs at Red Rocks, I would not waste my time on this one. The rock was rather manky and crumbly and the moves were more annoying than fun. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 19, 2011
rating: 5.10- PG13
| Great lead! A very heads up one though. Great moves on decent holds and finger locks. Bring the brass and offsets. |
By Mostafa
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 12, 2012
| I made the moves down low which are pretty fun but about 40 feet up I traversed right and that was a big mistake...the rock was horrible and scary gear placements. |
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