This is the next blunt corner uphill from No Mystery Here. Scramble uphill about 100' below a big pine tree. The first three bolts climb a few feet to the left of the branches. Climb slopey crystals for three bolts till the angle eases back, then after three more bolts decide whether to traverse right to the anchors of Simplexity (5.3 - 10' from the 6th bolt, 80' to ground) or continue to the route's anchors. 125' rappel.
8 or 9 bolts plus anchors.
Climbing Going to Chapel.
|By Matt Burns|
Jan 22, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
This gets a bit odd at the top, you cant see the anchors from the bottom because you can't really see them from most of the way up. I ended up traversing over to the anchors on the 5.3 to the right. The climb and the traverse wouldn't have been too difficult or scary, except that my friends convinced me that it would be a good idea to climb the route in my clunky mountaineering boots that I wore to hike in. My friends are idiots. But the point is, you will eventually run out of bolts, and about 20' directly right you'll see anchors that you can lower off of, the traverse isn't a problem, but don't do this route if you are shaky leading at the grade, as the route and the traverse are fairly run out and a fall late on the traverse could be quite painful.
Aug 22, 2004
Did this yesterday, good fun. After the sixth bolt, I didn't see any more until the anchors, but it's pretty mellow climbing. In addition, you can walk off the back from the top, rather than rappelling. However, if I were to do it again, I'd probably head over to the anchors after the 6th bolt.
|By E Johnson|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2008
There are no anchors to the right of the 6th bolt on this route. You either need to take enough quickdraws to finish and rap as Dave indicated in his comment, or leave a biner to lower on as you clean your gear.
The Gillett book shows anchors to the right of the 6th bolt. My theory is that route was extended at some point, eliminating this exit.
|By doug blocksma|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
Led this this weekend - only counted 8 bolts, and the anchors to escape to are 25' to the right of the 8th bolt now, not the 6th. There are still anchors at the very top, but you cannot see them from the (last) 8th bolt with a 40' runout between the two.
|By TM Miller|
Jun 16, 2014
From the anchors, a single 70m rope will get you down if you rap straight down (past Simplexity anchors).