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|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
This route is a mix of a few old ascents and one new pitch. In 1988 The Dutch Expedition put up a route to the orange ledge. Francois Burnier and Dominique Potard bolted another in 1990. Shamick Byszewski rebolted the first pitch of the Dutch Route in 2000 and in 2010 I linked it with the Burnier - Potard Route via a new second pitch. The entire 90m via the "Lois Lane" start is equipped with Ti glue-in bolts.
P1: 5.11a 110ft. You can begin on either “Lois Lane” or “Mr. Phi Phi.” Either way, pass the first anchor you come to and continue to the 32m anchor. The crux is the finish.
P2: 5.10d – 70ft. Sustained climbing on wonderful pockets. Go right through the early crux, then climb pockets on the right with a lot of stemming. A crack on the left drew me to this line but the pockets on the right are better. You can safely climb it either way. Head left onto the grey rock at the obvious traverse. Take a deep breath, and calmly edge to the anchors.
P3: 5.10d – 80ft. Another early crux that can be done several ways. Head up and right on a “superb orange wall.” Relax a bit and continue on sharp grey rock to a comfy belay. With long slings you could link the last two pitches.
P4: 5.10b – 50ft. Go left from the belay on easier terrain and prepare for the final hard moves at the top. Belay at the ledge.
You are now at The Ledge Routes Sector. See "Baron Von Tok le Retour" for a description of this sector and the summit pitches.
Descent: Traverse right on the ledge to the rap anchor below the Ledge Routes. See descent for "Rev de Phi Phi Don."
Left Sector. From the trail, walk left past the loose section of rock. You will see an obvious white arete of flowstone... This is "Mr. Phi Phi." From the loose rock to the patch of vegetation going up the wall (climbers right to left) the climbs are as follows:
- Seven Samurai
- Mr. Phi Phi
- Lois Lane
- Trong Pai
- Baron Von Tok
- Latitude Eight
- Brian Fagman
Titanium glue in bolts, 2010. 14 draws, several long slings.