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Butter Knife T 
Going Down to Harlem with a Turd in My Shorts S 
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Going Down to Harlem with a Turd in My Shorts 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,352
Submitted By: Jon Marek on Feb 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Brenda midway up "Going Down to Harlem" ...

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Description 

This climb doesn't look like much but offers a nice fun moderate 5.8 climb. The holds up top are right where you need them and not where you want them same with the bolts. It is bolted very well you just have to keep an eye out for the holds. It does help to bring 3 long or alpine quickdraws the first 3 bolts zig zag and have a few flakes to go around. Once pass this part move up through a small bulge onto the face. Finish on perfectly spaced bolts on a fun face with good white crystals to pinch and grab. Crux to me was the upper section there is one more that you really have to trust your feet. Other than that enjoy a nice moderate. 60m can get you down just watch your ends as there isn't much "extra."

Location 

two spires uphill from pointy little devil

Protection 

8 bolts 2 bolt chain anchor


Photos of Going Down to Harlem with a Turd in My Shorts Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Harlem on the left (with the rope), and "Litt...
BETA PHOTO: Harlem on the left (with the rope), and "Litt...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the summit in this pic it is eas...
Looking down from the summit in this pic it is eas...

Comments on Going Down to Harlem with a Turd in My Shorts Add Comment
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By Snake Ferguson
From: Rapid City, SD
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Someone should add Skidmark to this page. I don't feel qualified enough to :P
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb is about 100 feet uphill (left) of "Pointy Little Devil" and about 20 feet left of "Little Gremlins" (see photo). It starts up an easy wide crack/groove for about 15 feet then angles off left and up on the face to the summit. Although the first bolt is about 15 feet off the ground, it is easy to get to going up the wide channel, then stepping left. The route is well protected with about 7 or 8 bolts and a 2-bolt chain anchor on the summit. A 60m rope is enough. Fun climb.

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