Going Down In it
||Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||S. Levin, free solo, September 1990, F. Knapp, D. Hare, 1991 (2nd)|
|Season: ||Faces Due West.|
|Page Views: ||1|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jul 18, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: The route.
A hard route for the grade, with no pro down low. It would be easy to get injured slipping off the holds down low, which are surprisingly insecure for such good edges.
There is more protection as you get about 20' up, but that is past the crux anyway.
Down low get into the center area of a broad, black streak and find some good-angled crimpers - set feet and heave up onto higher holds, eventually heading slightly right to the right side of the back streak. A few small nuts could be placed there, then continue up and left passing a few intermittent cracks and potential placements as you go higher (and the climbing gets easier).
The crux is down low and not really protectable, so consider a TR, which can be done on Camalots up above the climb.
To retreat, belay the second up and walk off, or walk down to some anchors across an edge (to the South) and rap 40-50' to the ledge.
This is the leftmost route on Cenotaph proper, which starts in and follows a black water stain. Te black rock is surprisingly textured and positive, but the holds on smooth horizontal edges are somewhat less frictiony.
There is not much worth placing in the harder climbing down low, a few nuts and small cams higher as the climbing gets easier. Bring up to a #3 Camalot for an anchor up top for a TR.
By Jay Eggleston
Sep 21, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
I top roped this, and I saw no gear placements at the bottom as is described above. The climbing is kind of fun, but the route is very short.