An awesome route. Solid moves and epic climb that is a must do at the Poway crag. You can run it out after the 3rd bolt and before the first or place pro.
3rd route from the left. rap off
3 Quickdraws, Anchor Material, and Pro to 3"
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Nov 20, 2008
FA recorded as Dave Kennedy, 1995
|By George Bracksieck|
Jan 9, 2014
Despite the initial mediocre rock found up through the left-facing dihedral, this IS an awesome route. Exiting right from the top of dihedral, you begin a series of wild, improbable moves, past three rusty 3/8" bolts, up the steep, smooth, in-your-face cheeks of granite. Once found, the holds are amazing.
From the base, easy scrambling reaches the left-facing dihedral. I found only two gear placements in the dihedral, which felt like 5.8 and reminded me of Chicken Fart at Mission Gorge. Bring at least two #3.5 Cams for those placements. A #4 C4 (or equivalent Dragon Cam) may fit even better than a 3.5 in the upper of the two ~3.5" placements. This is just before you begin committing moves to the first bolt (which is about 50 feet above the base). Above the third bolt is a good short crack that takes .75 and .5 Cams.
The anchor bolts are at least 110 feet above the base. One of the anchor bolts is new and shiny; the other two are rusty. There are no rings for rapping or lowering. You could rap from Tiger or walk off.
From: San Diego, Ca
Apr 28, 2014
Leave the big cams at home if you're confident placing nuts: the dihedral eats 'em up. Bring a full set of nuts and a few (4-5) cams fingers to small hands. Save the .75 cam to place up high in a nice crack above the bolts.
This is a "full value" climb--one of the longest in SD--with tons of variation in the climbing: dihedral, pulling a small roof on positive holds, desperate smearing/mantel, and some crack at the top!
I think it would also be possible to traverse left at the top of the dihedral (before clipping the 1st bolt) and link into the upper "trad" section of Trogolodyte Trot, to make this into a fully trad climb. haven't tried it, yet, but looks like it would protect well. Just avoid drag with alpine draws.