This beautiful calcified San Juan volcanic tuff (not limestone) crag looks like it is straight out of France. Located just past Lake City, this is THE sport climbing destination near Gunnison. The walls are steep pocketed pocketed streaked in black orange and white. The view from the crag is spectacular! Weather can be very fickle so bring a rain jacket and watch the clouds.
The Cave above the Mileski Wall is home to the Mixed climbing testpiece Jedi Mind Tricks (M12) established by Jared Ogden and Ryan Nelson in 2004.
Starting in Lake City, get to the road to Engineer Pass (Henson Creek road). From highway 50, turn right on 3rd street, go 2 blocks and turn left. This road turns into Henson Creek road. Set your odometer and at about 7.2 miles you will come to a pull out on you right and Gods Crag will be visible high and to the right.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for God's Crag:
A super high quality route that never lets up. Pull on pockets, slopers and edges to an undercling "rest", then power through the roof on miniscule pockets and small edges to the second crux, stay strong and race to the chains. Super Classic! A 70m rope is recommended for lowering....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Keep in mind that CO had a shitton of snow this year. It's a south-facing cliff, but a good amount of water runs off the cliff early spring. There may some wetness still. But the front side cliff is most certainly dry. Also - true story - I went down there once in early May to bolt a route and over the day, I picked off at least 60 ticks (safe estimate). It was absolutely ridiculous. I could see them in the bushes, on the grass, on my gear, on the rope. The route "Show Us Your Ticks" was born. A day later, my girlfriend woke up back at home with one crawling up her back, and a quick check of the bed and my gear revealed a few more. Talk about nightmares! By late June that same year, two days at the cliff only brought out two ticks. What happens to all the ticks? I heard ants eat them. Anybody out there know?
How about some first hand info? I live in LC full-time. So let me give you the lowdown. Free Camping in/around LC is very limited. There is a some within 5-10 mi of town but only a very few in or close to town (if you want more info contact me directly).
As to conditions at God's Crag locally known as Tick Rock for reasons currently being talked about. It should be good to go, we do have a ton of snow still in the high country, and it would not surprise me if the rock is wet in places still. I warn you also the ticks are BAD this year, I have been pulling them off me every time I climb. I have not been to Tick Rock this year, and it is usually one of the worst places for the little blood suckers.
There are also some other places to climb besides Tick Rock. Sport and trad and they both have camping right there and not a lot of people. If you get to LC find the lumber yard and ask for Andy Dozier, they usually know where to find me. Gotta love small towns.
Not sure who is keeping track any more. I helped put up 3 - 5.10'ish routes out here in 2000. There's probably 10 - 15 more routes than listed at least by now. Many of these are very deceiving in grade. Very good quality rock, but 10a is fairly tough here.
If the waterfall is running, resist the temptation to take a cool shower. After goofing off under the waterfall, I stepped out of the spray zone and moments later, a huge rock had come flying down and landed right where I was!! Freaky!