||Boulder, Alpine, 20'
|Consensus: || Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Graham|
|Season: ||April, One of the earliest to Melt in Lower|
|Page Views: ||1,196|
|Submitted By: ||tcamillieri on Jun 30, 2009|
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
Most people say the crux is the long lock off to to the tooth hold. I, however, disagree. I believe this is the beginning of the crux. From here to the "jug." Although the redpoint crux comes all the way down to the back to back dynos at the end. Would have got for starts except for the landing and the grease on a few of the holds. Bring alcohol!
Beta: Start matched on the well chalked jug, high right foot, cross left hand to crimp and stretch, stretch, stretch out the the crimp next to the starting jug on autobot. Swing your feet over and heel hook the square cut. Lock off and reach to the tooth. Match feet, release heelhook. Work you feet over to a big drop knee on the left side of the wall. (This is my crux). Big dropknee, reach the pinch with a good thumb catch, right foot on the crimp that you locked off own to reach the tooth. Right foot up to higher drop knee, lunge for the "jug." Match jug, left foot backstep on the tooth and reach to a really cool sloping pinch. Right foot by your right hand on the jug, reach up to a bad pinch with your right hand. Put your right foot on the "jug" and then dyno for the good knob on the rail. Match and dyno again for the horn.
Next to Autobot
. Start on the well chalked jug in the chasm.
A few pads and two spotters. The dyno(s) at the top could potentially but you in the crevasse behind the flat ledge. Something to bind pads together is also helpful to keep them from sliding down the slab at your back.