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Angel Food Wall
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Gobies for Gumbies 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 2,721
Submitted By: Will S on Nov 25, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Richard Harrison on Gobies for Gumbies, 5.10+.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a beautiful splitter crack angling right and passing through a small bulge near the top on a clean dark red wall. The tech crux may be the first ten feet starting in a bulging straight up crack that begins fist and wider for a few feet with sandy face holds on either side. At the obvious bulge about 3/4 height, the crack thins from hands down to rings and stacks for a move or two and then fingerlocks just above. At that point you can stem to the wall behind you and use it as the crack pinches off and facey climbing or stemming takes you to the top. There is some mystery fixed tat just before the topout that despite it's appearance, you may be happy to clip.

While the texture isn't bad on this, there is a nasty bit of fin/offset on the bottom on the crack through the middle section that chews on your wrist. Some guides give this 10d or 10+ which may be a bit of a sandbag.

Location 

Just right of Group Therapy is a huge chimney system. On the left wall of the system is an obvious right slanting hand crack high on the wall. Start via a bulging straight up crack to gain the upper crack. Rap with two ropes via a single bolt + slung tunnel anchor.

Protection 

Mostly tight hands to hands, thinning down to fingerlocks at the end. Set of wires and tcus, and cams to 3" with triples in #1,#2 camalot sizes and optional doubles in the #.5,#.75.


Photos of Gobies for Gumbies Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Long and steep, but with good feet the entire way
Long and steep, but with good feet the entire way

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By michalm
Jan 5, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Really impressive line. Very sustained, fun, steep, and pumpy. It looks like it goes on forever from the ground, and the tight hands go on for ages. Although the rock in the first 20 feet will clean up with traffic, the rock quality for the rest of the route is quite good. An 80m rope can barely be used to toprope with a long cordalette, but will easily get you to the floor of the chimney on rappel. I recommend singles to C4 4 (skip the 3), doubles .5 and .75, and lots of 1s (I placed 4 C4 1s or green mastercams). The crack at the top thins out to your smallest cam sizes, but the wall at your back keeps things mellow. There is not a single 5.11 move on this route, but miles of 10 and 10+ jamming add up to a 11- pump.

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