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Moss Island
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Unsorted Routes:

Goat Crack 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 606
Submitted By: adrenalated on Jun 5, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Since there is no picture uploaded for this climb ...

Description 

Rumor has it that the FA of this route was done by a local goat. It, and its neighbor Jeff Loves Eileen, make good beginner climbs, and take good gear as well.


Location 

The first large slab to the left of the large metal tower is the Jeff Loves Eileen face. The graffiti for which it's named is mostly obscured now. The face is split by two prominent, diagonal cracks; Jeff Loves Eileen is the one on the right; Goat Crack (5.2) is on the left.


Protection 

TR using VERY long webbing/static, or better, use the many available gear placements. The route is G rated on lead.



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By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Dec 15, 2007

A great place for beginners to start. The crack's really good for passive gear if you don't have the budget for cams quite yet. There's also a large boulder on the top to set up solid top rope anchors.

By Nathan Stokes
Nov 21, 2009

I agree, this climb can be sewn up with a set of nuts and some doubles in the off fingers size.

By Mitch Hoffman
From: Fonda NY
Apr 7, 2010

This climb was my first trad lead and is a great place for anyone to give leading a try.

By Todd Clark
May 4, 2010

This was my very first climb EVER!!!! Thanks Goat