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 ADVANCED
Moss Island
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Beauty TR 
Canes Crack TR 
Chunky Chimbly T 
Climbski TR 
Clown, The TR 
Crucifix T,TR 
Curbar Edge TR 
Dance on a Volcano TR 
Dany's Demise T,TR 
Dreamer is to Hard, The T,TR 
Dreamer, The TR 
Fearsome Fern Flake TR 
Fool's Overture TR 
Fred P. Jones TR 
Freddie Kreuger TR 
Goat Crack T,TR 
Goat Crap or The Ladder T,TR 
Good Boulder Problem 
Hang Man TR 
Jeff Loves Eileen T,TR 
Joker, The TR 
La Mouche TR 
Lets Stand Him on His Head T,TR 
Little Feat TR 
Looking Glass TR 
Loose Lobster TR 
Marvin Gardens T,TR 
Moon Walk TR 
More or Less T,TR 
Mother's Day Mayhem TR 
Mr. Smiley 
Muntjack TR 
Older but Weissner TR 
One Over The Hill T,TR 
Outside Looking in TR 
Playback T,TR 
Poof! You're a Pomegranite! TR 
Poof! You're an Avocado TR 
Power Tower T,TR 
Prince of Darkness TR 
Roof Roof TR 
Seque T,TR 
Sit on It T 
Sno-White TR 
Spider Web TR 
Spiderman TR 
Super Sonic Flake T,TR 
Superman TR 
Thinker, The TR 
Thit or Tam Cam Loves You T,TR 
Triple Overhang TR 
Tumbleweed T 
Un-named T,TR 
Unhinged or the Hinge TR 
Vegematic TR 
Who Put That There? TR 
Windex TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Goat Crack 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 645
Submitted By: adrenalated on Jun 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Since there is no picture uploaded for this climb ...

Description 

Rumor has it that the FA of this route was done by a local goat. It, and its neighbor Jeff Loves Eileen, make good beginner climbs, and take good gear as well.


Location 

The first large slab to the left of the large metal tower is the Jeff Loves Eileen face. The graffiti for which it's named is mostly obscured now. The face is split by two prominent, diagonal cracks; Jeff Loves Eileen is the one on the right; Goat Crack (5.2) is on the left.


Protection 

TR using VERY long webbing/static, or better, use the many available gear placements. The route is G rated on lead.



Comments on Goat Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Dec 15, 2007

A great place for beginners to start. The crack's really good for passive gear if you don't have the budget for cams quite yet. There's also a large boulder on the top to set up solid top rope anchors.

By Nathan Stokes
Nov 21, 2009

I agree, this climb can be sewn up with a set of nuts and some doubles in the off fingers size.

By Mitch Hoffman
From: Fonda NY
Apr 7, 2010

This climb was my first trad lead and is a great place for anyone to give leading a try.

By Todd Clark
May 4, 2010

This was my very first climb EVER!!!! Thanks Goat

By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Great gear the whole way up. Nuts down low, you can place a small cam (purple and green camalots) towards the top. The official guide for the area list this at 5.4 or 5.5. I'm inclined to agree it's harder than 5.2, though maybe 5.5 is highly optimistic.