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Goat Rock
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BaaaD To The Bone 
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Clan Of The Goatmen 
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Goat Arete 
Goat Goes Up, Must Come Down 
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No Goats, No Glory 
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Goat Arete 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Wright, Tarrant, 2004 FFA Mark Tarrant
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 24, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: GA follows the steep underside of the arete.

Description 

Goat Arete is a wild pitch. Start off the second tier on a vertical and tricky face to gain the huge overhanging arete. Follow the arete and left face to the very tip of the arete. The rock is sharp in places but not at all unpleasant. Big moves on a very steep arete will leave you 30 feet out from the wall when you rap off. Goat Arete was originally freed several years ago when Mark and I were trading leads. While there may be no real 5.12 move on it, the cumulative pump and accelerating heart rate may yield 5.12 climbing overall. My preference is to stay left as you approach the anchor since this facilitates clipping and can be done from a good stance. However, it is possible to move right at the end and step back left to clip. Goat Arete climbs an impressive overhang with lots of jugs to work with. Seemed cool to me.


Location 

Off the second tier, under the big overhang.


Protection 

A dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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