Another great dihedral climb at Sinks. This moderate line is a relatively new addition to the area (comment on details and I'll add). This well bolted line is perfect for new leaders.
This line climbs the left leaning dihedral on laybacks and a few pockets and edges. The hardest moves move up and left over a bulge at 3/4 height. Fun hand-traversing to the left lead to the chains from here. Careful of climbers immediately below on the two face lines. A little short for a 3 star route, but great climbing for a 5.7 at Sinks.
On the left side of the addiction wall, a left leaning dihedral bounds a slabby section of rock. This line climbs the left arching easy dihedral (as opposed to the straight in corner above -- which has a newly bolted 5.11).
7-8 bolts to anchors.
Paul approaching the 2nd clip.
|By Josh Hattan|
Apr 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This route is called Go West, Young Man.
Jun 4, 2012
What in the world is the deal with all those bolts on a 45ft. climb? Absolutely ridiculous...and next to a crack! Easily protected with gear. We do things a little different out here in Yosemite...I'd be embarrased to be responsible for this...C'mon Wyoming folks!
|By J. Albers|
Jun 4, 2012
Oh really Yosemite Sam? What about the Public Sanitation wall or the Chapel Wall? Definitely no bolted cracks there....
Unless you have actually climbed this route and can comment from personal experience, then shhhhh.....
Jun 23, 2012
J Albers you really dont know what you are talking about...The bolted climbs you speak of in Yosemite are not rated 5.7...Would you ever find a 5.7 crack bolted like that in the Valley? The answer is no. Never. The climbs you speak of are all in the 11's and 12's and they were bolted long ago with much controversy...I don't need to climb a route to know that 8 bolts on a 45ft 5.7 is too much. So you shhhh....
|By J. Albers|
Jun 24, 2012
What does the grade of the climb have to do with it? I can bolt a crack only if its 5.12 or above and my address is in El Portal? Pfft...whatever. You do need to climb the route before you comment because unless you have climbed it, you don't know whether there is actually good gear there or not. Perhaps the placements are all flaring. Perhaps the rock wouldn't hold a lead fall with a cam in it. How do you know? You don't. And the FA of this particular route is a sharp guy and I trust his judgement and his reasons for placing the bolts. Moreover, he is a longtime local and by extension knows better than you or I what the local ethics in the Sinks require.
Jun 24, 2012
You're missing the point. I am against bolting ANY crack. At ANY grade level. The rule here is a ground up ethic. If the first ascentionist couldn't manage to do the climb b/c of flared cracks or bad gear or whatever then they move along and someone else who doesn't need to machine gun bolts into the side of the rock will put up the first ascent. All those bolts are an eyesore and take away from the adventurous spirit that climbing was founded on. I can't believe you are even aruing about this. As far as the very few bolted cracks here in Yosemite...like I said, they created controversy that lasts until this day.
|By Shawn Miley|
May 2, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Great climb and good bolts. Not like that YosemiteSam guy that was bagging on this climb, its a really great warmup route, and a classic at Sinks Canyon. And to the YosemiteSam, you have never climbed there so dont bag on it. Italic Text
|By bart cubrich 1|
May 31, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I agree that the bolts on this climb are unnecessary, but this is a great route, and everything is bolted to hell at this crag anyhow. There are bolts at the top of the v0 slab at the parking too, for who knows what reason. It's just sort of the style there I guess.