Go Van Gogh 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Hank Armantrout & Bill Cramer, 1982 |
| Submitted By: | Boissal on Nov 21, 2009 |
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Go Van Gogh
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Description Have you always thought the Ruckmans were off by 2 pins on the Groovin' topo? Did you traverse right and clipped a 5th piton on the day of the send? Then you're going to have to get back up there since you've finished on Go Van Gogh... INVALID!
The short steep dihedral below that last pin is home to this fun line that can be approached by climbing a moderate but unprotected slab from the Groovin' belay ledge.
Once in the corner, a series of awkward stemmy moves on thin gear lead to a piton and a fun mantle on the slab. Another body length of climbing and a piton later the route meets up with the finish of Groovin'.
Steep tricky, and kinda wild, another great line on the Egg.
Location Go Van Gogh sits directly below the tree anchor used for Groovin' in a steep right facing corner.
Lower of the slung tree or use the new anchor of Old Peculier.
Protection Microcams and small nuts for the dihedral, a couple of hand size pieces for the finish (whatever you use for the Groovin' roof).
2 pitons, maybe a sling for a small but surprisingly solid shrub.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.9
| This is a very fun route that should not be missed! The run-out 5.6ish slab leading to the crack can be avoided by following a crack that comes in from the left - you'll want to use long slings and consider some back cleaning to avoid rope drag. Another option is to do Groovin first and then during rappel place and clip a solid piece or two in the bottom of the crack so the slab can be top-roped. The harder climbing up the crack are well protected. |
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