Go Spud Go! 5.12c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c/d [details] |
| FA: | Boone Speed, 1988 |
| Season: | morning shade afternoon sun |
| Submitted By: | bheller on May 19, 2009 |
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Why Its Rad This is a likely candidate for best sport route of the grade at the City of Rocks. Everything a sport climb should be- its amazing you can climb one like this on granite. Go Spud Go shares the start with Spuds in the Gym, but at the stance where Spuds in the Gym pulls the small roof, Go Spuds Go continues right with a powerful boulder problem that requires uncommon flexibility. After the crux, continue trending up and right, eventually you find yourself climbing the left side of the slightly rounded arete. Binghams guide book hints that the "japanese" splits are required for a successful ascent, but I was able bridge the distance with the good old "a-merican" splits. I cant really do the true "balls to the floor" splits either- but this climb probably requires you are able to get close to it (Im 5ft 9in tall). The thing that makes this climb such a good sport route it you have to climb some really powerful underclings at the start(25 feet)and then without a rest or as much as a jib for a foot you execue a precise, unique, and powerful boulder problem that leads to some rests higher up and excellent thin face climbing for a finish. It is better than Spuds in the Gym because it shares the awesome start, and finishes with more interesting climbing. I think the flexiblity rumour has kept many potential senders from trying it- hopefully this sets the record straight.
It would be wise to protect the start with a small nut (backclean it after clipping the first bolt), and then put runners on each of the first 4 bolts. From then on you will only need draws to the top. Lower off the chains and ideally have a seconing climber clean the runners and draws. Go get it!
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