Left of "One Stop in Tonopah" and right of "Varnishing Point". Way fun!
Rap off a communal anchor with double ropes.
2 bolts protect the hard face moves, the rest is small gear up to 1"
Apr 5, 2010
Just above the 2nd bolt there is an undercling you may really want to use, but the rock feels like it will pull off as soon as any weight is put on it. It's a large piece and would likely ruin your day when it comes off. There are decent options that aren't as juggy, but they will stay on the wall at least.
|By Jon O'Brien|
Feb 7, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
worked on TR, i felt this route was absolutely outstanding and will be a very proud lead. highly recommended to at least work on TR after leading up simpatico. varnishing point won't get you to the preferred anchor... the superhero layback/ handcrack right facing mini-corner would take a gold cam (2'') as well...
|By Jonathan K|
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awesome route the crux is committing but above a bolt and the top is a bit run out with techy moves.
From: Las Vegas
Feb 12, 2012
The previously mentioned undercling is no more. Luckily nobody got hurt as it broke off in a 50 lb chunk. The route still goes though.
|By Austin Boren|
From: ;as vegas Nevada
Dec 14, 2013
feels like 11b without the good undercling, at least on lead. Its my favorite on the wall.
Jan 30, 2014
Vertical slab climbing. Feels like 11+ bouldering in the sun. People should be aware that literally ever piece up to the bolt where the crux begins is hollow and mainly eye candy. Even with screamers, I can't see any gear holding in that hollow rock even on a short fall. Probably better as a toprope, and now that holds are broken not the easy end of 5.11, either.