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Funk Rock City
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Go Easy Billy Clyde! 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tim Powers, 1992
Page Views: 935
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 20, 2008
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Description 

The first bolt is about 25 ft up. If you don't have a stick clip, a cam can easily be placed for the opening moves, probably 5.10a to reach the bolt. The first half of this route is slightly overhung and pumpy. Just above the first bolt is a reachy move. Once you reach the half way point, the wall is much less steep and you will find a great rest to shake out for the upper half. From the rest, continue up the face for more technical climbing (crux). Interesting moves up here, very different from the first half.


Location 

Located about 30 ft to the right of The Infidel or just left and around the corner from Goodstone.


Protection 

8 bolts, Anchors: Bolts on top with slings hanging over lip. A #4 Camalot is the most solid and easiest thing to place before reaching the first bolt, but smaller cams will also do if you don't have a stick clip that can reach the first bolt.



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By Joe Terravecchia
Jan 1, 2013

Perhaps the best route name in the Red.