Gnome Fingers 

I agree that Upper SY probably only sees one ascent per year, and a natural anchor has been adequate for over 30 years. I am curious as to why you think it is necessary to add a bolted anchor?

To clarify: I'm considering putting in a discreet rappell anchor to facilitate a safe and convenient descent after climbing the route. The last time I climbed the route (which was last week), I couldn't discern a logical way to descend. What's more, there were tons of loose rock and a couple of sketchy trees that could concievably lure climbers into an unsafe rappell. I think Gnome Fingers is a fabulous route and worth some extra traffic, therefore I propose making it a bit more approachable. Again, I intend to place the rappell anchors as discreetly as possible.

That being said, I am a local climber and I'd like to preserve relationships with local climbers; I don't want to place a bolt at the expense of climber rapport and consensus. If you have information regarding a more agreeable descent to Gnome Fingers, or any other opinions, remarks, or concerns, PLEASE let me know. I want to do the right thing.

I will be up at upper San Ysidro tomorrow afternoon (Friday the 7th) to clean up the approach a little bit, as well as scrub some of the lichen off of the route. I will refrain from proceeding with my plan to place the anchor pending a response from you.

Thanks for your concern.

Thanks for the clarification on the anchor situation. However, I disagree with your desire to "fix" this route, and "make the area more approachable." Not everyone appreciates the emasculation of our more adventurous feeling routes. Many climbers enjoy the adventure of finding routes, negotiating lichen, and figuring out the best descent. On this particular climb, folks have been doing this for 30 years. (Just to extinguish the upcoming flames, I am a 32-year SB local now living in SLO. I have done a lot of climbing in SB, and consider it my local area.)

Secondly, scrubbing a route to remove lichen is absolutely not acceptable. scrubbing is no different than chipping or gluing holds. It is defacing our resource and reducing the climb to your level so that you can climb it. If it is really that great, enough people will climb it so the lichen wont be an issue for you.

Thirdly, you implied that you plan to improve the access trail. I will reiterate that you are suggesting cutting a trail for a relatively obscure route that people have enjoyed for 30 years without your help. I will also point out that San Ysidro sees tons of hiker traffic. Consider how a new trail affect the viewshed and experience of non-climbers. Remember, too, that cutting branches and making trails is illegal in the area you are proposing. Image what it would look like if every user group modified the area to suit their needs. (BTW, we have lost access to one of our areas here in SLO, due in part to these behaviors).

Please, give your plan some serious thought before you proceed. There is a lot of depth to these issues that take some time to digest and appreciate. I realize that on this website I come off as a complaining old kermudgeon, but I feel it is important to present the other side. Those who are taking action (retrobolting, scrubbing, pruning, etc) should be the most cautious about their actions, and need to realize that not everyone appreciates their behavior.

Go out, climb some rocks, have a great time, and leave it the way you found it so others can enjoy the same adventure that you had.

This sounds like a variation of the Tonnere Tower discussion (scroll down about 1/3 down) in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. Sorry to say it Jon, but you do sound like a "complaining old kermudgeon (sic)".

It's a stretch to equate removing some lichen with chipping and gluing, and what's the difference in a bit of scrubbing if more traffic will have the same effect over time? A cleaner route will likely see more traffic, and is that such a bad thing?

Kudos to Andy for his thoughful post and willingness to accomodate the wishes of the climbing community.

A relevant thread with a positive vibe is taking place at Summit Post.

www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=31767&sid=52836319>>>

Dude. Put in the damn anchor. NOBODY climbs it.

"Dude. Put in the damn anchor. NOBODY climbs it."

Well, it's certainly hard to argue with that logic. Brilliant.

I tried to find this route a few months ago to no success. Could anyone give a more detailed description of how to approach it? Also, what is currently the best way to descend?

Great finger crack! for SB that is, and the sweetness is only about 30' long. Still, it is one-of-a-kind in this sandstone country. I found my ascent to be very dirty; my feet were paddling around on the lichen covered gritty face, but it seemed to get better for my two followers. Should get better with more ascents. Poor, smeared feet through the crux. Rack - doubles from #0 tcu to 0.5 camalot, small-med nuts. You wont place any bigger gear. Bolted anchor is VERY discreet... so discreet you dont think it is there while leading. A much better and safer rappel option than the "tree" with bail slings on it around the arete to the left - Thanks Andy!

Glad you liked the route, Richard. Also, I'm elated that you found the anchors to be discreet. That was my goal.

update as of 4/10/11 - Poison oak everywhere at the base. It is nearly impossible to avoid. You have to climb through PO at the start of the route, and you will certainly get your rope covered in PO when you pull it. You have been warned.

I haven't developed any rashes yet (going on 36 hrs), so if you have a decent tolerance and/or are EXTREMELY careful, much (not all) of the poison oak can be avoided (at least that which is currently green). There are a few plants on the lower portion of the route (before the first pro) which you pretty much can't avoid touching with your legs. And when you pull your rope, it is pretty much going to hit the mothership. I can only imagine it will get thicker growth over the next few months. Which is probably better, so that you can actually identify the plant by the greens and not have to guess about stems!

That being said... I'd add that this route is definitely worth a small rash (assuming that's all you get). I never thought I would enjoy a finger crack... I can't wait to get on a longer one!

It helps to go down there with someone who's been there before. The route is only about 40 feet from the main trail, but its a bit of a slog through brush to get there.