A fun route with great rock and varied climbing.
Right of the tunnel is a large flake. To the right of this flake notice the ledge going across to the right, about 20-feet up. (The ledge become a large ramp on the right-most side where it intersects the hillside.) The first pitch starts at the two-bolt anchor about 1/3 of the way across this ledge.
To reach the start, you have a few choices. The easiest is to hike up the trail to the left of the ledge and then walk out the ledge. Some parties may not want a rope to get to the bolted anchor, but if the ledge is wet, it might be nice to have a short belay.
P1: (5.8+) Climb up the corner past a bolt to a long ledge. Traverse to the left end of the ledge, where you will find a bolted belay by the tree. Uses face and layback moves plus the occasional jam. Protects well with nuts and cams.
P2: (5.9) Continue directly up the corner and then up an easier flake section. This pitch can take big gear to protect the easier section, but cams to 3" would be fine for those comfortable at the grade. The moves between the corner and the crack/flake above can be hard.
P3: (5.9)Head left and then up a crack to bolts at the top.
A fun variation is to follow the crack up and right from the belay (Heart of the Country, 10b).
Descent: Rap the route. You can reach the ground from the top of the second pitch with 2 60-m ropes.
Standard trad rack to 4 or 5" be sure to bring at least 2 big pieces (e.g. #4 and #5 camalots) for the second pitch. All belays/rap stations are bolted. Make sure to have runners for the first pitch to help reduce rope drag.
|By Jesse James|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 13, 2006
There is a great varition from the top of the 5.10b pitch on heart of the country that continues for about 40 more feet. The Cramer guide calls it 11a, but its not any harder than 5.10 with great gear.
|By john stiles|
Aug 12, 2006
i agree with jesse, the final pitch on hoc is 10. the last 3 pitches are short and link up easily with a 60 making it a great full-value pitch.
Sep 3, 2006
i'll second the full value.
and i'll have seconds please.
John thanks for showing us the route, say hey to Michelle :)
From: Las Vegas
Oct 15, 2007
I don't think the big gear is all that necessary on the 2nd pitch. I think I placed a #3 and #4 camalot on that pitch. If you look around there are some options.
From: Las Vegas
Oct 27, 2008
If the right hand start is wet, I'd suggest scrambling around from the left. We climbed the right hand side and the ledge was wet, leave covered, and downright scary for both the leader and follower.
|By Keenan Waeschle|
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 27, 2010
looked at this today, the sloping ledge 30 feet above sharp flakes scared us off. is there a easier way to get up? also, how many people solo the 5.10 direct start? getting into the route looked super sketch
|By Eric Fjellanger|
Jun 6, 2011
As sqwirll says, scrambling in from the left is easy. I would almost always do that before the right-hand approach.
The direct "boulder problem" seemed much harder than the 5.10c Cummins's guide gives it, even on TR.
|By Brian Prince|
From: morro bay, ca
Sep 30, 2012
The ground can be reached in two raps with a single 70m form the top. Or 3 raps if you want, but it definitely works. All the stars if you do the heart of country pitch which is phenomenal. Don't stop on the ledge, just keep going up the crack for more of the same for the "variation."
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 10, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
While I do appreciate the re-bolting effort on this route, it would have been nice to see the old bolts chopped rather than leaving them in place right next to the new, good ones.
For locals, someone ought to take a breaker bar and some epoxy up that route when they think of it and chop the old studs and patch the holes.