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Gluttony 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lance Hadfield or Chris Grijavla
Page Views: 1,059
Submitted By: LeeAB on Jan 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Ian McMillan in the upper corner of Gluttony.

Description 

Make Bouldery moves off of a boulder up into a corner. Cop a rest and cruise over the roof into the right leaning corner. This bit is fairly continuous, but no stopper moves. at the top of the corner a few more moves lead up to the red-point crux coming back left with big moves on open handed holds. Continue more easily to the anchor

Bolted by Chris G., given to Lance who I belive cleaned the route, then because of how good it was going to be, I belive given back to Chris G. One way or another, they both deserve credit.

Location 

See Overview photos. Route starts off a boulder and climbs into a corner, over a roof and into a right trending corner.

Protection 

Bolts and a bolted anchor.


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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 15, 2010

Great route for the tunnel and seems to stay relatively clean. The upper draws are all fixed so you only need to hang the bottom three. Depending on your stick clip skills you should be able to hang all of them from the ground.

The first move is the hardest, but the difficulty probably comes from the sustained finish on wide slopers.