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Black and Tan
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Glutton for Punishment S 
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Unknown, 5.7 S 

Glutton for Punishment 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T. Goss, J. Howard
Page Views: 1,278
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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What it looks like from the belay up
In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise

Description 

A long, low-angled, fun climb on sharp limestone. Lots of positive holds, including the edges of a couple of flakes. The rock is rough enough and the climb low-angled enough you could probably smear all the way up if you wanted to.


Location 

At the left side of Black and Tan climb the ramp that slopes upward from right to left. Climb up and over a gap at the top (left) side of the ramp. Once through the gap the starting bolt will be obvious. The start is shared with two other routes, so keep bearing right as you climb.


Protection 

8 bolts to Metolius rap anchors (with a quicklink on the left anchor). The rock is rough, there are some sharp edges, and the climb is low-angled so we belayed from the top and then the belayer rappelled rather than lowered to save wear and tear (and worry).



Photos of Glutton for Punishment Slideshow Add Photo
<em>Glutton for Punishment</em>, 5.7
BETA PHOTO: Glutton for Punishment, 5.7
Ethan on <em>Glutton for Punishment</em>.
Ethan on Glutton for Punishment.
This rock was like velcro. Four year old Indy TRd up to the third bolt without a problem.
This rock was like velcro. Four year old Indy TRd ...
Comments on Glutton for Punishment Add Comment
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By Wyatt H
From: Casper, Wy
Apr 12, 2011

Couldn't tell where the route went based on the guidebook. Too many bolts going everywhere from newer routes put up. Use the photo here instead.

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Fun warm-up to the Woodsbury area. Great slab at the beginning, and than a fun flake at the upper half that you can fun on. This route and area is in the sun in the morning.

By JeanieB
From: Provo, UT
Apr 9, 2013

This route shares anchors with the route to the right, Redolence. Learned this the hard way when there was someone already leading on that route when I started up.

By user id
Apr 9, 2013

How traumatic.