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West Face, Direct Start 

Gluten Free 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Hand & Kent Lugbill, 25 April 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,109
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Apr 25, 2012
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Gluten Free's location from the ground.

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Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Follow bolts along a seam, then continue with easier climbing with gear to the anchor. The crux begins at 4th bolt.

The route was named for my current diet to lose 20 lbs.


Location 

Climb the first pitch of West Face to a large ledge above and left of the bolted anchor.

A 60 meter rope easily gets you from the Gluten Free anchors down to the West Face rappel anchors.


Protection 

8 bolts, large sling for a mushroom, large cam (#3 Camalot), 2-bolt anchor, extra slings to lengthen the gear placements.



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Starting the crux.
Starting the crux.
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By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jun 28, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Great route! Still a little dirty but super fun. Climbs way harder than it looks. I never saw where the #3 would go? If you can manage the crux, you would be fine without any supplemental gear. I placed a #0.5 Camalot before the anchor and noticed other possible placements as well, but not for the #3....

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Slightly painful fingerlock at the crux but good climbing. I believe it could have been climbed/developed as a trad route... and I'd advocate that sort of climbing. As a trad lead it looks engaging but not dangerous. Sm-med stoppers, small cams, and maybe a ball-nut if you wanted to do it completely boltless and without a runout.
Will have to go back when it is not raining and give it a go as such.
To answer the question above from Mark Roth, I think the #3 goes high and left between the last bolt and the anchor.