Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Athlete's Feat 
Atlas Shrugged 
Bailey's Overhang 
Beetle Bailey 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) 
Big Splash, The 
Black Crack, The 
Boot Lead 
By Gully 
Cadaver Crack 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The 
Circadian Rhythms 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge 
Coffin Crack 
Comeback Crack 
Country Club Crack 
Crank It (aka Slabio) 
Curving Crack 
Cussin' Crack 
Cussing Fingers Variant 
Direct Start 
Dropout Option 
E-Z Action 
Englishman's Home 
Final Exam 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The 
Gluten Free 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot 
Jackson's Wall 
Jackson's Wall Direct 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment 
No Fly Zone 
Nobody's Home 
Pass Fail Option 
Polyester Leisure Suit 
Queen is Dead, The 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The 
Storming the Castle 
Subterranean Homesick Blues 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past 
Tourist Extravagance 
Water World 
West Face 
West Face, Direct Start 

Gluten Free 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Hand & Kent Lugbill, 25 April 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,111
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Apr 25, 2012
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Gluten Free's location from the ground.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


Follow bolts along a seam, then continue with easier climbing with gear to the anchor. The crux begins at 4th bolt.

The route was named for my current diet to lose 20 lbs.


Climb the first pitch of West Face to a large ledge above and left of the bolted anchor.

A 60 meter rope easily gets you from the Gluten Free anchors down to the West Face rappel anchors.


8 bolts, large sling for a mushroom, large cam (#3 Camalot), 2-bolt anchor, extra slings to lengthen the gear placements.

Photos of Gluten Free Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the crux.
Starting the crux.
Comments on Gluten Free Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jun 28, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Great route! Still a little dirty but super fun. Climbs way harder than it looks. I never saw where the #3 would go? If you can manage the crux, you would be fine without any supplemental gear. I placed a #0.5 Camalot before the anchor and noticed other possible placements as well, but not for the #3....

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Slightly painful fingerlock at the crux but good climbing. I believe it could have been climbed/developed as a trad route... and I'd advocate that sort of climbing. As a trad lead it looks engaging but not dangerous. Sm-med stoppers, small cams, and maybe a ball-nut if you wanted to do it completely boltless and without a runout.
Will have to go back when it is not raining and give it a go as such.
To answer the question above from Mark Roth, I think the #3 goes high and left between the last bolt and the anchor.