Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cactus Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affluenza 
Afterburner 
Agave 
Alexi's Climb 
Alignment, The 
Almost French 
Almost Gothic 
Amiga 
Are You Experiential? 
Awesome Offwidthin' 
Axis of Evil 
Banana Split 
Barbed Wire Love 
Beach Ball 
Beef Cake Formula 
Bionic Minnow 
Black Slabbeth 
Blackman's Burden 
Blade Runner 
Blarney Stone, The 
Blond Princes 
Bombodido 
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The 
Bur-Har-Bur 
Cactus Cliff Addict 
Candy for Big Kids 
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") 
Cellulite District 
Centurion Enigma 
Cheeseburger In Paradise 
Child's Play 
Chompin' at the Cholla 
Christmas Tree 
Chunky Monkey 
Cobra 
Commitment 
Crimpin' and Pimpin' 
Crimpson Candy 
Critic's Choice 
Cro-Magnum 
Crynoid Corner 
Cure For The Common Crimp 
Da Fly 
Dances with Cholla 
Dereliction Affliction 
Dihedrus 
Divinity School 
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves 
Early Bird 
Escalando 
Et Tu, Brutus 
Fantasia 
Fast Food Nation 
Fishisms 
Flight of the Phoenix 
French Are Here, The 
Fully Equipped 
Funkdemental 
Gabby 
Glass Babies 
Glue Slippage 
Good Red Road, The 
Gravitations 
Great Expectations 
Half Breed 
Hero Driver 
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? 
High Heeled Tittty Twister 
Hot Beach 
Hurricane Hinzi 
I Claudius 
I Lean 
I'm Having A Vision 
Ian's Climb 
Illegal Smile 
Impulsive Hands 
Institutional Meat 
Jamuary 
Joy of Cholla, The 
Jumpin' the Gun 
Just Thesenga It 
Kalahari Sidewinder 
Killer Toupee, The 
King Louie's Traverse 
Kodachrome 
La Temperatura de Shelf 
LaCholla Jackson 
Lats Don't Have Feelings 
Legend on the Fall 
Leisure Class 
Manly Bulges 
Midget Toss 
Misalignment 
Morning Joe 
Muscle Beach 
New Ethics 
New World Order 
Ol' 47 
Oscar de la Cholla 
Out There Take Anything 
Paleolithic Tool Traditions 
Part Muffalo 
Pick Pocket 
Politically Incorrect 
Poquito Mas 
Puff Daddy 
Purple Corner 
Quarterback 
Quasi Quasar 
Raven, The 
Reach Around, The 
Red Eclipse 
Red Giant 
Redman's Burden 
Relampago 
Richard Simmons' Tanktop 
Risky Business 
Shelf Pride 
Short Man's Burden 
Six More Bottles of Basco 
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass 
Slicer 
Solar Eclipse 
Spray Lord 
Squeeze the Moment 
Stand, The 
Super Suka 
Third Stage 
Three-Quarter Ton 
Thumbs Up 
Tits Up 
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat 
Total Recount 
Totally Blonde 
Turkey's Bleak 
Two For One 
Under A Blood Red Wall 
Unknown 
Usual Suspects, The 
Utter To A Scream 
Wadsworth Boulevard 
White Punks on Pockets 
Whiteman's Burden 
Working Man 
World Peace 
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine 

Glue Slippage 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Johnson, Dale Goddard, 1985
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 20, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (1)

Man-tasia is now named Pi...

Description 

About 50 feet to the left of the Tits Up/Hot Beach area on the left side of Cactus is a nice section of cliff with a distinct bulge about 30 feet off the ground. Two routes climb this section of cliff with the left route being Da Fly (13a). The right route that shares the same satrt with Da Fly is Glue Slippage.

After climbing the scary loose start of Da Fly, move slightly right to a ledge system below the bulge. Move up to the bulge (tricky) and then make burly moves along an overhung right-trending seam with difficult clipping stances (crux). At the top of the seam move left onto a thin headwall with sustained climbing to the anchors.

A Cactus Cliff three star for out-of-the-ordinary steepness for Shelf and historical reasons (since it is rumored to be the first route at Shelf)


Protection 

8 or 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor



Photos of Glue Slippage Slideshow Add Photo
the crux bulge
the crux bulge
Comments on Glue Slippage Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stefan Griebel
Oct 22, 2007

This climb looks great from the ground, but compared to the many other great climbs at Cactus Cliff, I felt this one was mediocre. It starts with 25' of chossy, easy climbing. The next 3-4 bolts up the steep arcing crack feature are fantastic and pretty hard. The final crux involves (for me) pulling on a hollow-sounding Frisbee-sized flake. I predict that this flake will soon be tossed just like a Frisbee thus making the route a bit harder. Due to the chossy start, creaky flake, and non-sustained overall nature, I can only give this climb 1 star. The star is earned by the fun and hard moves up the crack with a touch of historical perspective.

By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
Nov 12, 2007

Anyone climbing at this level will certainly understand the subtlety of pulling down rather than out when they reach the "Frisbee" in question. Certainly this route is better than one star. Not a classic, but very good, and well worth doing, especially for the unique lower crux.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Apparently it's just me, but I thought this route was awesome. True, the first 20 feet aren't classic, but that goes for many a route at shelf. The crux moves are full value; unique, techy, powerful and fun. The top lets off somewhat, but is sustained and keeps you on your toes. This one got me syked up and smiling.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 27, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Finally sent this one after trying it here and there for a few years. Still feel the same, this is an awesome route. I did not, however, come across any frisbee-sized flakes near the top, and there was definitely a redpoint or at least onsight crux up there. There were a few hollow sounding holds at the rest in the middle, but it's easy to tread lightly on them. If you're tired of just pulling on crimps and pockets, this is the one for you!