Glory Road 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Mike Paul & Paul Borne, March 1988 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Oct 21, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Glory Road".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description Enjoyable moves on smooth grey rock characterize this route with the crux coming near the top where one encounters a random, and all natural, perfect two-finger pocket. These rare pockets form on occasion and it's the odd route which features one (see Elephant Walk for another example). Bolted anchor/rap.
Well-protected climbing up a steep slab/face within staggering distance of your vehicle make this an obvious choice, yet it rarely sees any action. Two stars out of five.
Location On the formation just left of Coarse and Buggy up a smooth face right of a left-arching crack system.
Protection 5 bolts, FP, bolted anchor/rap
By RTM
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| I'm usually not one for balancy slab climbing but I found this route to be great fun. Bouldery .11+ edging leads to a seam. From there, excellent .10+ and .11 smears leads to a short vertical headwall with a balls-out crux move (dyno for me). An eye-opener to what your rubber can do when you trust it. |
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