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Going through the crux bulge on Glory Hole.
This route climbs very solid pink granite through 7 clips to a 2-bolt anchor. The lower section moves through positive incut holds to a series of laybacks to the right of the bolts, finishing at a dog-dish type hold at the fourth bolt. The route then traverses left a few feet before entering the crux, a couple long moves over the bulge. This crux will be considerably harder for people shorter than 5'7". After the crux, a couple 5.11 moves to the anchors! Basically, this entire route moves through solid good holds with good feet, but gets its grade from the powerful moves at the crux...have fun.
This is a great sport pitch and one of the few 5.12s, also it is one of only a couple steeper routes on the wall. There are 7 bolts to a 2-bolt coldshut anchor. You can easily set up a top rope by climbing Twin Flakes (5.10b) to the right. you will lower right over Glory Hole's anchors....
Quick shake after the crux for the last couple 5.1...
|By Jeff Welch|
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 13, 2010
Great movement! Doesn't get 4 stars only because the natural line of holds kinda leads into Twin Flakes in the middle... it's possible to climb directly, but doing so probably adds a letter grade (and another crux).
It could use a rebolting though, the bolts (as with most on this wall) are looking a little tired.