Glory Days 5.11
| 402 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Brown & Baird, 1985 |
| Submitted By: | Richard Shore on Jun 13, 2011 |
| |
Glory Days climbs the steep face past the two huec...
Add Photo Printer View
Description Across the road from the main Sespe Wall lies a steep 50 foot high face marked with two huecos on the bottom half. Strenuous and dynamic climbing is the name of the game. The route starts with a run-and-jump to the first hueco, followed by a huge throw to the second hueco. Two more big moves up and then left lead to easier climbing and a vintage bolted anchor (1985 originals?). The lead bolts are in decent shape, although the 4th bolt is missing a hanger. Use a wired stopper, rivet hanger, or bring along a hanger and crescent wrench :).
Protection 4 bolts (1 hangerless), 2 bolt anchor.
Mark Collar on Glory Days 5.11
| | |
By Richard Shore Jun 13, 2011
| When I led this route in May, the lower two bolts looked good. The upper two did not have hangers, but did still have nuts attached. I happened to have an old SMC hanger and a small crescent wrench in my vehicle, and I replaced the third hanger while on lead. Exciting! If you climb this route, consider doing the same for the fourth bolt. I cinched a wired stopper around it instead. |
By Richard Shore Jun 26, 2011
| After climbing this route again, I realized that it is extremely height dependent. My 5'4" partner couldn't even reach the hold at the jump start. If she had made it, I am certain that she never would have made the move to the second hueco without doing an all-points-off dyno. However tall you may be, I still suggest throwing yourself at this thing - loads of fun! |
By Neil Roessler Jul 27, 2011 rating: 5.11b/c R
| Exciting route. extremely height dependent but a few fun moves leads to an unprotected slab. I would love to climb this in it's entirety but it needs two more hangers plus anchors. |
By Richard Shore Jul 27, 2011
| It's not "R rated" if you can think outside the box. Just because there are/were hangers doesn't mean you can't adequately protect this route. Consider it a sport climb for trad climbers. |
By Michael Stearns From: Santa Barbara, CA Jul 16, 2012
| This route is safe and really fun. I slip knotted the hangerless fourth bolt with a dyneema sling. Definitely not the preferred method, but it worked in a pinch. The climbing eases significantly after the third bolt, so I didn't really feel it was a big deal. I did notice the the fourth bolt jiggled in its hole. That is a little worrisome. |
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Jul 17, 2012
| I think it's high-time this route saw some TLC. A few bolt-replacements are in order. I'm not advocating bolting ADDING, just replacement. Metal and sandstone wear down over time. Bring your bolt kits, people. Richard, I still have your bolt kit, so you're absolved from responsibility. Ha! |
By Aaron Stireman Aug 20, 2012
| There is a hanger on bolt 4 now, as well as 2 newer bolts at the anchor with rap links. Every move went static for me and im 5'8. Feet felt secure the whole way up. Fun route! |
By William Domhart From: San Luis Obispo, CA Feb 25, 2013
| Thanks to whoever replaced the old bolts and anchor on this route. Fun, dynamic climbing at the bottom to a spicy slab move to gain the left side before easing up. This was my first 5.11 lead and I thought it was well protected. Height dependent as others have echoed. |
|