This is pumpy and slightly overhanging route is very enjoyable. A light rack of cams is optional for the crux and recommended for the 5.10 variation.
The 5.11 crux is at the third bolt, which has ledge fall potential if you blow it. A tiny TCU is helpful to reduce that chance. A 5.10 bypass can be done to the right, which is protected by small cams. A few long slings are also helpful to reduce drag.
You can lower with a 70m to the ground, and just barely rap with a 60m. A few small cams should be placed on the way down to ensure that you can swing over to the ledge system at the start. Knots in the ends of your rope are recommended.
This route is the first bolted route to the right of the first chimney that encounter as you hike uphill.
11 bolts, small cams for 60m rap.
Aug 24, 2010
FA: S. & Y.K. plus Tim Hansen, 1998.