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Glob of Shit 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
FA: unknown
Page Views: 491
Submitted By: Peter Monks on Jul 12, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

A really fun little route, starting with some steep shenanigans that lead straight into the deceptively hard and reachy crux. A small cave allows a sit down rest, then an easy but pleasant ramble leads to the surprisinglycommitting but easy layback to the anchors. 4 FHs in total, and take along a long sling for a big thread betweenthe 3rd and 4th FHs. Double FH lower off (take long slings to reduce drag over the bulgy lower walls) - the lastclimber should ramble up for another couple of metres to the rap anchors. It's a good idea to stick clip the first FH, as clipping it from the first ledge is dodgy if you're shorter than Shaq.


Protection 

Mainly bolts, but some "long" slings are good for a massive thread at 2/3 height. Long slings are also good for the anchor (to reduce rope friction over the bulges lower down). Stick clipping the first FH is *highly* recommended.



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By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

Good name.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Oct 30, 2006

c'mon, it's better than 1 star! my goal with this climb is to not belly flop into the cave next time. you can hand traverse the lip of the cave to the next bolt without too much difficulty. also, stip clip is not mandatory, but it pretty much involves either climbing higher than you'd like, or a blind clip. of the blind clip, backstep high into the semi-cave beneath the first bolt. reach over with left hand and let your belayer give you the directions.