|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Richard Rossiter and Glennis Walters, 2000|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||2,436|
|Submitted By: ||Jake Wyatt on May 19, 2002|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
Nickie Kelly setting up to turn the roof below the...
This is a sport line just around the corner to the left of The Memory of Trees. It is the right of two lines on this steeper buttress, and starts in the same spot as Twin Peaks, the route to the left. It looks harder than it is.
Move up, clip a bolt, move into the pod, wiggle left, up left of the cavity/roof, find bigger holds than you would expect, and pull right over the roof. Fire past a few bolts on to a steeper headwall. Here you can move right (easier) or left (slightly harder) and then find a optional fist jam to the 2-bolt anchor in a little pod.
The upper headwall is a wee bit fractured and a mite lichen covered currently, but it may improve with age.
6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
BETA PHOTO: Glennevere and Twin Peaks. Glennevere is the seco...
BETA PHOTO: Routes left of The Memory of Trees. Arrows are app...
Erik Marr at the Glennevere anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermar...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2002
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
I agree with the comments expressed. I did it yesterday with no knowledge of the climb other than that I saw the line. I guessed 5.9 and thought it was pretty junky. I'd put it in the "don't bother" category.
I'd have given it the bomb.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 17, 2002
I climbed it yesterday without knowing anything about it. I rated it 5.7, and my climbing partner called it 5.8. I thought it made for a good warm up and was worth doing.
|By Ray Snead|
Sep 2, 2002
Spooky rock. Per RR: "Glennevere", 5.8.
|By Steve Marr|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 7, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I thought the route wasn't too bad for the crag - the upper section above the small roof was definitely better. It felt harder than the other 5.8s at the crag - probably due to the steeper nature of the face. We scrambled up to a shelf running below Glennevere, Twin Peaks, and Dark Tower to belay from.
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I was surprised to see this climb stopped before pulling through the cracks at the top. I would like to go back and try this one again and top-out.
|By Chris Plesko|
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Must have cleaned up a bit with age. Definitely steeper and more fun than Road to Isengard in my opinion.
|By Scott McMahon|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2012
Basically one long boulder problem. Really fragmented in its flow, but wouldn't hurt to climb it.
Sep 2, 2012
I pulled the loose rock off the climb yesterday that was marked with the chalked X. It seemed pointless to mark a loose rock that was easily pulled out by wiggling it for 30 seconds or so. Hopefully this will be more helpful to future climbers of this climb.
|By James Weckbaugh|
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
Depends on how you do this one. If you don't do the small dihedral with roof, it's a 6-7.
|By Jonathan Reeves|
From: Golden, Colorado
May 4, 2013
I would say that the rock on this climb is pretty junky. There seemed to be plenty of jug holds after the overhang that I skipped in fear of the rock breaking off. The roof section was fun. After the roof was meh.