Glenfiddich Regrets  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 970 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Paul Ross Andy Ross Jim Howe (var leads) 4th Dec 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  USBRIT on Dec 6, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Three tiny figures on the summit.Goodman

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Description 

A mountaineering style route up a previously unclimbed Reef peak.There are three main pitches all are on good sandstone.The route name comes from the training camp activities the night before the climb.
P1) Start below the black wall (small cairn)Climb the wall on good holds for about 40' then go just left of a blind crack past a bolt that protects a couple of 5.7 moves to a good ledge and tree belay.150' 5.7. (rap anchors about 20' to the right)
P2)4th class up slabs into the amphitheater for about 300'then when below the obvious big corner scramble up left for a 100'to a good ledge below the main wall.Here the next pitch starts.
Easy slab to the dark rock corners. Up the corners past a bolt then more steeply up the wall above passed two more bolts to double anchors.200' 5.7.
3)Scramble about 100' up to the right to below the final head wall.Straight up the center of the wall via broken cracks and slab to a great summit.Double anchors. 120'5.6.Register in small cairn on summit.Desent. Rap the route

Location 

Located of the Crag S section of the Eastern Reef. From the road end at Two Finger Canyon an easy hike north for about 20 mins.Then scramble up the wash to the start . See Topo

Protection 

Cams 1/2" to 3" .Two 60m ropes.

Photos of Glenfiddich Regrets Slideshow

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Jim belaying Paul on the first 150' pitch.	Andy following P1	4th class to the central wall
Andy at the top of the dark corners P2	P2	Jim on belay below P2
Andy near top of P2	Jim on the final pitch	Andy on belay last pitch... with the view south.
Andy coming up last pitch	Andy and Jim on the summit	Full team
Hiding the register	BETA PHOTO: A)Glenfiddich Regrets.5.7 B)The Milky Way.5.8	Miscellaneous photos: the night before the climb.....
BETA PHOTO: Dawn from the camp site .Looking towards the La Sa...	BETA PHOTO: Camp just after dawn... no movement!	Desert Cows at the nearbye watering hole
Desert Cows like us heading out...