|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 970', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross Andy Ross Jim Howe (var leads) 4th Dec 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||556|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Dec 6, 2012|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Desert Cows like us heading out...
A mountaineering style route up a previously unclimbed Reef peak.There are three main pitches all are on good sandstone.The route name comes from the training camp activities the night before the climb.
P1) Start below the black wall (small cairn)Climb the wall on good holds for about 40' then go just left of a blind crack past a bolt that protects a couple of 5.7 moves to a good ledge and tree belay.150' 5.7. (rap anchors about 20' to the right)
P2)4th class up slabs into the amphitheater for about 300'then when below the obvious big corner scramble up left for a 100'to a good ledge below the main wall.Here the next pitch starts.
Easy slab to the dark rock corners. Up the corners past a bolt then more steeply up the wall above passed two more bolts to double anchors.200' 5.7.
3)Scramble about 100' up to the right to below the final head wall.Straight up the center of the wall via broken cracks and slab to a great summit.Double anchors. 120'5.6.Register in small cairn on summit.Desent. Rap the route
Located of the Crag S section of the Eastern Reef. From the road end at Two Finger Canyon an easy hike north for about 20 mins.Then scramble up the wash to the start . See Topo
Cams 1/2" to 3" .Two 60m ropes.
Andy and Jim on the summit
Jim belaying Paul on the first 150' pitch.
Miscellaneous photos: the night before the climb.....
Andy following P1
4th class to the central wall
Hiding the register
Andy at the top of the dark corners P2
BETA PHOTO: Camp just after dawn... no movement!
Andy coming up last pitch
Jim on belay below P2
Andy near top of P2
BETA PHOTO: A)Glenfiddich Regrets.5.7
B)The Milky Way.5.8
Jim on the final pitch
BETA PHOTO: Dawn from the camp site .Looking towards the La Sa...
BETA PHOTO: Three tiny figures on the summit.Goodman
Desert Cows at the nearbye watering hole
Andy on belay last pitch... with the view south.
|Comments on Glenfiddich Regrets