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Glenfiddich Regrets 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 970', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Paul Ross Andy Ross Jim Howe (var leads) 4th Dec 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 51
Submitted By: USBRIT on Dec 6, 2012

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Description 

A mountaineering style route up a previously unclimbed Reef peak. The three main pitches all are on good sandstone. The route name comes from the training camp activities the night before the climb.
P1) Start below the black wall (small cairn). Climb the wall on good holds for about 40', then go just left of a blind crack past a bolt that protects a couple of 5.7 moves to a good ledge and tree belay. 150' 5.7. (rap anchors about 20' to the right)
P2) 4th class up slabs into the amphitheater for about 300', then when below the obvious big corner scramble up left for a 100' to a good ledge below the main wall. Here the next pitch starts. Easy slab to the dark rock corners. Up the corners, past a bolt, then more steeply up the wall above past two more bolts to double anchors. 200' 5.7.
3) Scramble about 100' up to the right to below the final headwall. Straight up the center of the wall via broken cracks and slab to a great summit. Double anchors. 120' 5.6. Register in small cairn on summit.

Descent. Rap the route

Location 

Located of the Crag S section of the Eastern Reef. From the road end at Two Finger Canyon an easy hike north for about 20 mins.Then scramble up the wash to the start . See Topo

Protection 

Cams 1/2" to 3" .Two 60m ropes.


Photos of Glenfiddich Regrets Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy and Jim on the summit
Andy and Jim on the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim belaying Paul on the first 150' pitch.
Jim belaying Paul on the first 150' pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Miscellaneous photos: the night before the climb.....
Miscellaneous photos: the night before the climb.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy following P1
Andy following P1
Rock Climbing Photo: 4th class to the central wall
4th class to the central wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiding the register
Hiding the register
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy at the top of the dark corners P2
Andy at the top of the dark corners P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp just after dawn... no movement!
BETA PHOTO: Camp just after dawn... no movement!
Rock Climbing Photo: P2
P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy coming up last pitch
Andy coming up last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim on belay below P2
Jim on belay below P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Full team
Full team
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy near top of P2
Andy near top of P2
Rock Climbing Photo: A)Glenfiddich Regrets.5.7 B)The Milky Way.5.8
BETA PHOTO: A)Glenfiddich Regrets.5.7 B)The Milky Way.5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim on the final pitch
Jim on the final pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Dawn from the camp site .Looking towards the La Sa...
BETA PHOTO: Dawn from the camp site .Looking towards the La Sa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Three tiny figures on the summit.Goodman
BETA PHOTO: Three tiny figures on the summit.Goodman
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Cows at the nearbye watering hole
Desert Cows at the nearbye watering hole
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy on belay last pitch... with the view south.
Andy on belay last pitch... with the view south.

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