Glenda 5.12a/b
| 763 page views
Good page?   |
Add Photo  Printer View
Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Start up the first two bolts of Technowitch and break left at the third bolt. Beware there is some large loose stuff sitting on the ledge. Climb off the large through closely spaced bolts (very nice as a big fall would be scary here) on more solid then it looks rock. Negotiate the steep overhanging arete on good holds and set yourself up for the crux headwall finish.
Location Leftmost route on the tower, shares first two bolts with technowitch and breaks left.
Protection 9 Bolts to Chains with lower off biners
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 19, 2007
| The grade is my guess; I thought this was harder than Technowitch but easier than Full Rubber Mission. The rock quality while not great is more solid than it looks. The upper headwall rock is comparable to the flakey rock found on Medusa. Be sure to put your feet in the pockets as the little flakes will more than likely break off. This is probably a symptom of all tower routes that are new or don't get climbed alot. |
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.12b
| A really fun route - it seems to be cleaning up nicely. It's a worthy addition to the tower. I felt it to be a bit more difficult than both Tehnowitch and Rumplestilskin. And although it has been a while since I have done Full Rubber Mission (it's always difficult to compare these things), I felt the crux move after going through the no rest lower moves was at least as difficult as anything on Full Rubber Mission. After passing through the bulge to the arete, there are really no opportunities to shake out. |
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.12b PG13
| Great Route. Sent this last weekend. ***note to climbers***
When climbing into and through the last bolt, the arete that you use to finish the climb is a little loose. A friend of mine was TR'ing it. He used a heel hook on the arete and pulled off a larger toaster sized block and missed the belayer by inches. Mostly the entire route is solid and good, but that top arete is somewhat chossey. Be careful. And enjoy another classic Tower climb!!!! |
|
RSS Feed
1 more...
Slideshow