The Glen Canyon NRA is an immense area that spans from northern Arizona all the way up to the Canyonlands National Park, and from near Escalante all the way to the Goosenecks near Mexican Hat. Before the dam was completed in 1963, there were hundreds of miles of canyons that no doubt contained some incredible climbs and other magical adventures. The canyons are long since flooded, but there is still a tremendous opportunity for remote adventures here. A little exploration goes a long way out here in the desolation of the high desert. Notable areas are the Escalante region and the Waterpocket Fold, the canyons of the San Juan River, and north one has the Dirty Devil, Rock Canyon, Andy Miller Flats, and the magnificent gorge of Cataract Canyon.
The established climbs are in the Escalante area (Willow Canyon), and atop Andy Miller Flats. There are unclimbed towers and spires in this vast area, but you must put your adventure hat on to find them.
Browse More Classics in Glen Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Glen Canyon:
Broken Bow Arch 5.8+ Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III
The Middle Finger Tower 5.9 A3- Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 170 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For Glen Canyon
The Middle Finger Tower 5.9 A3- UT : Glen Canyon
The route starts on the south side of the spire. The original description:Climb a short 5.8-9 dihedral to get to the good ledge (the knuckle). The route follows the obvious weakness above, which is a crack that start on top of a large square block and zig-zags up. Use some bird beaks, and thin to medium pins or clean aid to get to the shoulder. A couple of beaks in drilled holes get you close to the summit.Newer/better description courtesy of Crusher (thanks!):1. Climb crack in a dihedral, 5.8,...[more] Browse More Classics in UT