Climb crack to ledge, make an awkward stem, or friction, move to gain the ledge on the left. Walk left to below the crack, then climb up to it. Follow the crack, utilizing good holds on the left wall for purchase and pro, until fantasy knobs on either side of the crack allow easier, albeit runout, climbing past the oak tree (may want to sling it). Reenter the crack and follow it as it sweeps rightward to the top of the cliff.
V1 5.6: Start directly below the crack and friction up to the ledge. Quite a bit harder.
At a short fist crack leading to a ledge at head-height, with another ledge 5' above and left of that one. You are, of course, heading left to the obvious crack with a small oak tree growing out of it (not the same one as Chess Club Crack, however).
Though not necessary, a #5 cam may help calm the nerves at one spot. Otherwise, a standard run of cams should do.
Be careful to protect your follower at the start, either by not placing gear until the oak tree (for those leaders confident with that sort of thing) or by managing the belay rigorously when the follower ascends it.
|Comments on Glee Club Crack
|By Bruce Monroe|
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a
I believe the hardest move on this climb is the one in the corner at the start. After that it's a fun cruise. I took some people here who had never climbed before and they loved it.